SUPPLIED BY: Streacom
PRODUCT: FC8 Fanless Chassis
PROD LINK: FC8 Product Page
PRICE: $189 @ eBay
Price is at the time of testing!
An extreme close-up of the CPU cooling block, with its six holes for heatpipes. All these holes are provided to help maintain compatibility for multiple mainboards. You undo the screws, fasten the base to the mainboard, put the heatpipes in place, and then attach the top to the base. Not too hard to do.
The manual explains that you should use thermal paste on the heatpipes when you finally do get them installed. The thermal paste is not included. Boo! You need a fair bit of the stuff to coat the heatpipes at both ends, so why not include some? Really now, it’s not like it’s that expensive.
Flipping the block over and posing it next to a video card box I had lying around, we can see that some lapping is called for on this thing. That is not what I would call a very smooth finish, there. You can also see the four screw holes on each corner that mate to the mainboard brackets.
Let’s have another look at the inside of the case.
Well… either this case really has to go to the bathroom, or something really did a number on that left heatpipe. Wow, that’s more bent than my sense of fashion. That says I’m going to wear my sweat pants with a suit jacket and neon pink socks.
I really don’t know how this happened, but I bet it has something to do with the CPU block being inserted into a big piece of styrofoam and then shoved into the back of the case. Streacom might want to look into packaging this case a little better. Meantime, I’m going to bend it back and hope it ain’t broke. Not that I have any hardware to build a system in this case in the first place.
One of these connectors is for the power LED, one is for the switch. They are not labeled and can be installed in reverse order on both ends. So, you need to have a look in the manual to tell which pins on the front panel PCB are for the power switch, and which are for the power indicator. I would have used a keyed proprietary connector on the front panel and just labeled these properly.
This is the block that holds the right side heatpipe to the heatsink. As you can see, there are three places you can use to mount the heatpipes, in case your motherboard demands something other than this.
And speaking of motherboards, before I go too far with this, Streacom has tested and approved some for use with this case. They are at the time of this writing:
- Asus F1A75-I Deluxe
- Gigabyte GA-A75N-USB3
- Zotac A75ITX-A-E*
- Asus P8H61-I*
- Asus P8H67-I*
- Asus P8H67-I B3*
- Asus P8H67-I Deluxe B3*
- Gigabyte GA-H61N-USB3
- Gigabyte GA-H67N-USB3-B3
- MSI H61I-E35 (B3)*
- Intel DH67CF
- Intel DQ67EP
- Intel DH61DL
- Zotac H61ITX-A-E*
- Zotac H67ITX-D-E
- Zotac H67ITX-C-E
- Zotac H67ITX WiFi
- Zotac Z68ITX-A-E
- Zotac Z68ITX-B-E
All boards marked with an asterisk are Gallic in origin. Oops, I’m thinking of Asterix. Nope, these boards all require the use of 2.5″ hard drives, presumably because the 3.5″ bay is blocked in some way.
Here’s the front panel power and indicator connector. See what I mean about this being reversible?
And speaking of reversible connectors, here are the three USB connectors to hook up. Two are for the USB ports on the front (they are only 2.0 compatible), while the third is for the card reader. Pinouts are provided in the manual, which I remind you is not included with the case. However, you can get some idea of which wire does what by looking at the card reader PCB.
Here’s the card reader now. Yes, the USB wire connectors are reversible too. Try not to get them hooked up backwards.
Finally, here’s the CPU block installed on the heatpipes.