Reviews - EVGA 1000G (G1) 1000W
Sample Provided by: EVGA (By OklahomaWolf on Mon, Jun-08-2015)

Page 5 - Disassembly

The first thing we see upon opening the unit is... not the fan the box promised us. The box said we'd be getting a ball bearing model... this is an HDB or hydrodynamic bearing model.

Fan scoring has really been driving me up the wall lately. Determining which models are or are not more reliable is well beyond the scope of the average power supply review, and way too much work for not enough pay. Rifle bearing, sleeve bearing, fluid dynamic bearing, hydrodynamic bearing, Teflon nano bearing... I'm starting to think it's all mostly various snake oil sleeve bearing models or ball bearing models only we're finding. In fact... FDB, TNB, and HDB are all sleeve bearing variants, they're just "improved."

So... I've had it with trying to figure out which fans are going to hold up and which won't and trying to score on them. Here's what I'll do... if I think the fan's junk and will not hold up, I'll knock a point off. Otherwise, I just don't care. This is not or If you want to nitpick over the fan in the forums, be my guest. I've got too much work on my plate as is to do it here.

And I do think this fan's going to hold up, so I'm not taking that point off.

I've also decided not to take any points for the fan wires, either. The OEM did use zip ties to hold the wires in place, but they were still just a bit too long and twisted at just the right angle to hit the fan under certain circumstances. You probably have a one in a hundred chance of running into that issue, and if you do just RMA the unit. I'll just re-route the wires in this one so they can't hit the fan anymore.

The OEM in this unit turns out to be good old FSP. I've given them a hard time in the past over their mediocre Epsilon design, but FSP is still a personal favorite. They have a knack for putting out affordable units that hold up for years, even if they haven't always been top performers. Even in the days of the bad quality constantly failing capacitors, it was uncommon to find them failed in an FSP unit.

Yep, we got our Japanese main filter caps, all right. Nippon Chemi-Con.

Line filtering starts here with two Y caps and an X cap.

FSPs boardwork is usually top notch, second only to a handful of OEMs. This is no exception. Soldering is nice and clean, with threadlocker used on all heatsink screws. If I know FSP, those screws will also be too long to back themselves out in the unlikely event they loosen up.

Near the 12V output parts, I found this APW7174 asynchronous buck converter. I was unable to get it to convert my wallet's bucks into more bucks. Guess I tried to make it do too many at once.

The 12V output parts are all under the mainboard. Four 036N04Ls and four 027N04LS parts.

More line filtering here. Two X caps, two Y caps, two coils (one after the bridge), and a TVS diode. No complaints here.

FSP opened up their grab bag of capacitors on this one. Electrolytics come from Capxon, Taicon, and Teapo. Polymers come from Capxon and Teapo.

I don't believe capacitor quality merits a point deduction in this case... I only score against the real junk these days, because the days of the bad capacitor plague are pretty much over.

PFC parts include two diodes and three 6R165Ps.

I was not able to get a good look at the main switchers... this unit seems designed to be as much of a pain as possible to take apart, and I'm a bit short on time these days anyway.

The minor rail VRM is located here, between these Teapo capacitors and the modular board. It is not possible to remove without a ton of heat and time, so I'm not going to try. The controller is an APW part, but which one I was not able to tell. Three BSC0902NS parts for each of the 3.3V and 5V rails handle the output.

No complaints about the soldering here. The camera flash makes it look messier than it really is.

The modular board has a few more Capxon polymers on it. You can just see the CM6901 PWM controller in that notch on the bottom right. A PS223H handles protection duty.

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