Our fan of the day is a fairly common Globe model that carries the unfortunate distinction of being sleeve bearing design. I do score against that... I've had too many of these sleeve jobs fail, even though I have yet to see this specific one do so. I've got one cooling the top of my home theater receiver running at 6V or so, and it's held up for years.
Our OEM today is Sirfa, formerly Sirtec. They've had quite a variable track record here. Some of theirs have been awesome, others not so awesome. And if the rumors I've heard are true, it all makes sense why the awesome ones are awesome. But I'm not a rumor mill, so I'll keep that knowledge to myself, thank you very much.
Oh, for the love of... that has to be the biggest build quality blunder I've seen since I started reviewing stuff here! How do you break one corner off the main PCB like this, anyway, without the screw being too tight? How was the unit able to run at all? I hope there are no PCB traces under there that got cut. I'll be looking at that in more detail in a minute.
Really, I can't figure out how they managed this. The screw wasn't overtight. Shipping damage? The housing should be bent nearby if that were the case.
Sirfa's been doing pretty good for a while now. This is the kind of thing I used to see from them in the old days, back when they were called Sirtec. I hope we aren't sliding back to old ways, here. Even so, the unit did run, and completed all tests. Of all the corners to break, this looks to be the one with the least impact on working condition.
And no... this has nothing to do with the output voltage regulation. This is on the primary side of the unit.
Line filtering starts here with two Y caps and one X.
The soldering quality I see here isn't the best I've ever seen. I will be scoring on that.
Hmm... ok. That's why the unit could still run... that corner only serves as a ground for that capacitor. This would affect the primary side line filtering and not much else. Since there is still enough of the trace left to ground to the chassis, I'll leave the broken corner out and replace the screw with one that has a large integral washer to hold this corner down securely. Incidentally, the faceplate screws from Mitsubishi built Chrysler head units are exactly the right screw for the job. Correct threads and all.
We find an ample amount of line filtering as we look at the front of the PCB. Two X caps, two coils, and two Y caps. There's a TVS diode as well you can't see in this shot.
This unit has a GBU1506 bridge rectifier on that heatsink on the lower right. PFC parts include two 5R140Ps and a diode.
And this is our PWM controller. The PFC controller, a 3PCS01, is underneath the mainboard.
Two more 5R140Ps are the main switchers for the unit. Looks like a mouse gnawed off the corner of the board, doesn't it?
Four IRFB7437s provide the 12V output for this unit.
The VRM uses a total of eight 06N03Ls to power the two minor rails.
By the way, I don't see any vsense functionality in here at all. The unit probably does well enough before power gets into the wires, but has no way to adjust the voltage depending on load because it can't really monitor things where it needs to. This is the kind of thing you pay Seasonic extra money for.
If ever you needed more confirmation that those modular connectors should not be plugged in where they're not supposed to be, this shot is that confirmation. No way are the PCI-E and CPU connectors electrically compatible. A good design gets around that by making the connectors incompatible. This one, like the Thermaltake before it, does not do that.
The real bright spot in this unit is the capacitor selection. It's all tier one stuff. Nippon Chemi-Con and Fujitsu (now part of Nichicon).
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