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Testing Methodology Discussion Questions and comments regarding the testing methodologies used on jonnyguru.com

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  #11  
Old 04-30-2013
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1500€, that's too much. Thought it would be way cheaper.
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Old 04-30-2013
Philipus II Philipus II is online now
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...Says the guy with the chroma at home^^

I didn't pay for it, but I can use it as often as I'd like when I'm at the Chroma. So for me it was the perfect upgrade.

Next step: Get a decent sound level meter.
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferky View Post
....
Supposedly, the Golden-i that they showed off at CES last year can use IR tech to see through walls.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpBwRX68fIY

*shrug*
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philipus II View Post
...Says the guy with the chroma at home^^

I didn't pay for it, but I can use it as often as I'd like when I'm at the Chroma. So for me it was the perfect upgrade.

Next step: Get a decent sound level meter.
Ah, thought you paid for it. Cool if you can borrow it

Personally I would invest 1500€ (ok more) in a good bench scope... My Rigol 1052E, which I use at hold-up tests only, doesn't have all the triggering options I need and on top of that I really fancy the 8" screens the new ones have.

For a decent db meter you need a little more than 200 euros. And even with this one you won't be able to measure correctly below 30 dBA. Not like some guys that with cheapo 50- 60 euros db meters who think that they can measure even close to 20 dBA!! For below 30 dBA besides a totally isolated room you need a really expensive sound meter. I have a rebadged Extech soundmeter (actually the Extech is based on the one I have) which is very good and reliable and also features a USB port so I can remote control/acquire data from it through my proggy.
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philipus II View Post
Link to first pictures of a Streacom Nano 150:
https://www.computerbase.de/artikel/...eil-im-test/7/

@jonnyGURU:
If I do it your way, I would measure the temperature of the fan grill and the fan. The metal and plastic has it's own temperature which is usually different from the elektronics.
Too bad your "computerbase.de" text gets applied over the top temperature so I can't tell the peak temp.

I think you should also be able to disable the date and time, which should allow you to center the psu better.

Anyway, the flir will scan the image and measure the heat reflected.. it shouldn't be too bothered about the grill of a power supply.

Maybe you should see if the flir can accurately detect the temperature through some glass/plexiglass/policarbonate materials (various glasses let through various emissions , camera may work better or worse with some types of glass) . Once you find a suitable one, maybe you can replace the top of power supplies with a custom top and original fan.
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  #16  
Old 05-02-2013
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text is fixed. Thanks for the hint.
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  #17  
Old 06-09-2013
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Pictures of the Sea Sonic Platinum Fanless 520:
http://www.computerbase.de/artikel/n...ss-520-watt/9/
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  #18  
Old 06-09-2013
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was talking to Noctua about thermal cameras. They told me that they tried even super expensive models but at least in cpu coolers the results weren't the expected ones.
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  #19  
Old 06-09-2013
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It's worth noting that shiny surfaces don't radiate heat very well. You can see it with an infrared temp gun too. Two surfaces, one shiny and one matte that measure the same temperature with a contact thermometer will read wildly differently with an infrared temp gun or a thermal camera.
That's probably the problem Noctua is having, shiny aluminum heatsink fins don't radiate heat for the camera to see. They conduct it inside themselves nicely and transfer it to air nicely via convection, but the camera can't see that.
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