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Thread: custom gaming rig review... help... please...

  1. #11
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    right.
    Rig 1: Phenom II X2 550-Asus M5A78L-MLX--2x4 Patriot DDR3 1333--Asus Formula HD4770--Enermax Triathlor 450--LG Flatron W2252TQ--Win 10 x64
    Rig 2: Core i3 6300--Asrock Z170M Extreme4--2x8 Adata DDR4 2400--EVGA GTX 750Ti--Corsair CX500M--Corsair Hydro H55--Windows 7 x64

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    I see where the OP did not say he wasn't going to use his computer to download songs illegally from a bit torrent site.

    In case he was planning on doing that, it would also be illegal.

    I also see the OP did not say he wasn't going to use his graphics card to crack passwords.

    In case he was planning on doing that, (I have seen offers to pay to use your graphics card, sponsored by organized crime..... I am not making this up.)

    That would also be a very bad idea.

  3. #13
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    Ok guys... let's keep this level headed.

    As far as I remember, the EULA of an OEM OS doesn't specifically state what kind of PC the OS can and cannot get installed on, only that is only used on only one machine at a time. Also, technically, that OS is only supported by Microsoft's customer (to whom the Microsoft sold the OEM software to) and not Microsoft directly (except, of course, if you need to re-activate the OS because it's been uninstalled off one machine and is getting installed on another.) They will know from the activation code that the software is an OEM when you call, but they will not ask for a back story. They'll only ask if the OS is installed on more than one PC.

    Now, a lot of OEM OS's look for BIOS string. They've been doing this since XP for Dell, HP, Gateway, etc. These will install on particular make/model computers, but will not install on other computers. The CD's for these OS's are usually branded as they are published by the system builder and not Microsoft (they only need to buy the OEM codes from Microsoft). If the OS is on a holographic Microsoft Windows CD though, odds are its not going to look for a BIOS string.

    Now let's move on....

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    Thanks for stepping in.
    As far as I remember, the EULA of an OEM OS doesn't specifically state what kind of PC the OS can and cannot get installed on, only that is only used on only one machine at a time.
    That is correct, but the OEM license and EULA will also say something similar to this seen for Windows 7 Professional, (their bold),
    By using the software, you accept these terms. If you do not accept them, do not use the software.
    The software license is permanently assigned to the computer with which the software is distributed. That computer is the “licensed computer.”
    So it cannot be transfered to a new computer. There are other references, but we don't need to side track this thread.

    So back to FLOOOSH, if you currently have a full retail license, no worries, you can install it on your new computer as long as it is not installed on any other computer. If you don't have a retail license to transfer, you will need to purchase a new license, or use Linux. In either case, I recommend 64-bit.

    Also, I don't see a keyboard or mouse listed. If not bringing them from an old computer, don't forget to budget for them as well.

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    Also, I don't see a keyboard or mouse listed. If not bringing them from an old computer, don't forget to budget for them as well.
    How about a desk?
    Mouse pad?

    I'm a big fan of the Aeron chair.

    Now only $680

    http://www.amazon.com/Aeron-Chair-He.../dp/B000LT9H4A

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    Working for Micro$oft sure can mess with one's head...

    Or maybe it's the other way around?
    Careful what you wish for... You just might get it.

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    Now that the 1090T is down to $199, the conventional wisdom that AMD hex-core doesn't have bang-for-buck for gaming is being challenged. Yes, not many games take advantage of more than 2 or 3 cores right now, but it is pretty cheap future-proofing.

    Quote Originally Posted by FLOOOSH View Post
    SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
    i was at first gonna go with this hard drive but thought it might be better to buy a fast rpm internal hard drive and a bigger capacity external hard drive. i wasn't sure though if i could like store games on the external and play them using the faster hard drive or shome shit like that i dont really know what im talking about. sugestions on what hard drive or drives is hould buy would be cool
    I'm not too keen on Samsung Spinpoints right now. Samsung has no Windows SMART utility. You can't get a free edition of Acronis disk imaging like you can with Seagate and WD. Performance doesn't match up with WD Black drives. Their required diagnostic s/w for RMA is ancient Freedos boot and doesn't work on either my AMD 890GX or S775 systems. I have two F1's less than 2 years old. One of the two drives is making knocking sounds every 1.5 seconds, even with no writes going on.

    If you are getting a SATA III mother board, I suggest taking a strong look at the new SATA III WD Blacks. My Sata II Black 640GB is going strong after more than 2 years.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HangFire
    If you are getting a SATA III mother board, I suggest taking a strong look at the new SATA III WD Blacks.
    Good catch! I agree. I like WD Blacks too but perhaps more importantly, that motherboard does support SATA III, the latest version. So to take advantage of the newest technology, buy 6Gbit/s (SATA III) drives. By the same token, I would go for 64Mb buffers too. If I were buying today, I'd consider the Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - Bare Drive.

    I did just have a couple WD drives fail. But both had 5 year warranties (something I look for). Plug the serial number into WD's RMA wizard and it quickly determines if warranty is still valid. If good, they send a replacement drive immediately. You have 30 days to return the old. You pay return shipping only and they have a discount deal with UPS if you buy and print a shipping label on-line. Not a bad deal. I wait for the new to arrive then return the old in the same box. Mine came in 2 days.

    They do require a credit card number, but they don't charge unless 30 days passes.

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    Actually, SATA 3 is just a marketing gimmick in HDDs. No mainstream HDD is capable of exceeding 300 MB/s, except for bursts, which yield virtually no meaning for real world performance. SSDs, and only the newest ones, are where SATA3 matters.

    I see no problem with Samsung F3.

    I have two F1's less than 2 years old. One of the two drives is making knocking sounds every 1.5 seconds, even with no writes going on.
    Except past series have no impact on how new series perform. I have a friend who had 2 Samsung F1s die on him, it doesn't mean that F3s are as bad. F4s could be better, but I have no worthwhile information about those.

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    Yep agree with rafal here. Sata-3 (aka Sata 6gb/s by real name) is completely worthless for normal hard drives. Only SSDs can take advantage of the bandwidth at all. And that's only for the newer ssds that actually can hit over 250mb/s. HDD's just come down to what noise/vibration you're looking for, what rpm, and which ones work well for certain workloads.

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