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Thread: New Build HELP!!!

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    Default New Build HELP!!!

    Just starting a new build here and need some help! I'm using an asus p5n-t deluxe and the e6850 cpu with a thermaltake 700 watt PSU. The problem I am having is when I get everything hooked up nothing powers on except the green light on the board. When I troubleshoot the PSU by itself it powers on fine and with a multimeter the voltages are reading correctly. When I attach the 24 pin and 8 pin mobo connectors the voltages are reading down to 1 volt everywhere. It does this when the CPU is in and out. I have RMA'd this motherboard 4 times and Asus continues to say it's my PSU, however the PSU checks out fine and I have even used another PSU and I am getting the same results. I was thinking maybe CPU issues? Also everything I purchased was brand new except the mobo, which asus is saying works just fine. I am stuck! Can anyone please help!!! Thanks!
    Last edited by larrkmon; 09-17-2008 at 10:04 PM.

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    Pull the mobo out of the case and bench test it on the box the board came in. You can use a small screw driver to short the PWR_SW pins where the front panel header connects.

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    Thanks for the reply MI-Taz. I have tried testing it out of the case but have not tried shorting the PWR switch mainly cause As soon as I turn my PSU on everything fails even the PSU fan won't spin. I get the board back from Asus RMA hopefully on Friday and will give it a try! Should I have everything installed (CPU, RAM, GPU)? Thanks again!

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    If you simply plug the PSU into the board and turn the switch at the rear of the PSU to ON, it's not going to do anything (Nothing).

    You have to connect it to the motherboard, and then short the PWR_ON pins to simulate that it's installed.

    The only other way to turn a power supply on is by using either a jumper between a black wire and the green wire on the 24pin connector or by using a PSU tester on the PSU.

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    I have tested the PSU with the green wire and got a working PSU, only when connected to the mobo is when the PSU does not function, however I will try shorting the PWR switch and see what I get...also, should I have the CPU installed during this test or does it make a difference? Thanks again!!!!

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    wow, I'm an idiot... I realize what you are saying now Tazz... Of course, if you just turn the switch on in the back...you still have to power up the computer...damn, I feel oh so stupid!

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    .. I wasn't trying to make you look or feel anything. But I assume by the last post, that you made progress.

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    haha, well i havn't got the mobo back from asus...something about stormy weather and they have been closed all week... But, I gaurantee that is the prob! Thanks again for your help!!!!

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    If you have not yet read the manual to your mainboard COMPLETELY, do it now! We call that RTFMing (read the freaking manual) and sadly, sometimes it is an insult to those who try to skip this important step, but seriously, never build a new system with a new mainboard until you've read the manual from front to back.

    BTW: Some mainboards already HAVE on/off and reset micro buttons ON them for bench testing. Check for this on your board, the manual will say something about it hopefully. Also, go to the manufacturer's website for the latest manual in PDF format, it will have updates in it possibly.

    Another thing: Those standoffs that are used to accept the screws that hold the mainboard to the computer chassis: NEVER have one of them where it should not be as it will short the mainboard to ground and damage the board and more. Check to see that the ONLY standoffs are where motherboard screw holes are!

    And this: don't confuse the power supply cable's 20+4 pin connector (the +4 part) with being for the CPU power header, this +4 connector has a red, yellow, orange, and black wire IIRC. The one that you DO use for the CPU power header IS the one with only yellow and black wires, each to a side, either 2x2 or 4x4 or 2x2+2x2, in other words 2 yellows on one side and 2 blacks on the other side. Never force a connection, if you have to, something is probably wrong.

    Furthermore, don't confuse the PCI Express Graphics (PEG) power cable/connector with the CPU one. The PEG has either and/or: 3 yellow on one side and 3 black on the other, and/or 2 more blacks on opposite sides (8pin PEG), and/or a 6+2 setup, with the +2 wires both being black. Never attempt to plug a PEG connector into the CPU power header, or, well, sadness may ensue.

    On top of all of this: Don't ever run a processor without thermal compound and proper mounting of HS/F! These are an absolute MUST! Don't get fingerprints on the contact surfaces. Clean with 90% Iso Alchohol or arctic silver arctic clean (that's what I use, lasts forever). Use coffee filters that are particle free to clean with, not paper towels or cloth. NOTE: ever time you remove a HS/F, you MUST clean and reapply thermal compound as per compound manufacturer's instructions. I highly recommend Arctic Silver Ceramique to less experienced system builders because it is the easiest to apply/install and the most forgiving. Follow AS's website instructions for your exact given processor TO THE LETTER.

    HTH, and good luck to you, you've done the smart thing: asking for help!
    System #1: DFI LP UT nF4 SLI-DR; Athy 64 s939 4800 Toledo (MKII) @ 3.01GHz w/Thermalright XP-120 Lapped & Panaflo w/Coollabs Liquid Metal compound; 2 x 1GB Team Xtreem Cronus Micron 5B-f DDR-500; EVGA 7950GT; Creative Audigy 2 ZS Platinum; 6prt Adaptec USB card; SevenTeam ST750Z-AF Modular supply; ASUS DRW 1608DW burner NEC 3520a burner; Seagate 7200.10 750GB SATAII HD; Seagate 7200.10 ES 500 GB SATAII HD; Excelstor 80GB SATAI HD; Coolermaster Stacker STC T01 UWK; it's modest, but paid for

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