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Thread: Kill-A-Watt accuracy test

  1. #11
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    Spectre
    System #1: DFI LP UT nF4 SLI-DR; Athy 64 s939 4800 Toledo (MKII) @ 3.01GHz w/Thermalright XP-120 Lapped & Panaflo w/Coollabs Liquid Metal compound; 2 x 1GB Team Xtreem Cronus Micron 5B-f DDR-500; EVGA 7950GT; Creative Audigy 2 ZS Platinum; 6prt Adaptec USB card; SevenTeam ST750Z-AF Modular supply; ASUS DRW 1608DW burner NEC 3520a burner; Seagate 7200.10 750GB SATAII HD; Seagate 7200.10 ES 500 GB SATAII HD; Excelstor 80GB SATAI HD; Coolermaster Stacker STC T01 UWK; it's modest, but paid for

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    From what he's saying, the Kill-A-Watt he has is working fine, except for that one power supply and the power line source is the same, yet supposedly cause the Kill-A-Watt to be wildly off. So it makes me wonder what the waveshape of the current is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kvar View Post
    From what he's saying, the Kill-A-Watt he has is working fine, except for that one power supply and the power line source is the same, yet supposedly cause the Kill-A-Watt to be wildly off. So it makes me wonder what the waveshape of the current is.
    No from what I am saying is it doesn't work right about 25-30% of the units I get in (ie it happens on a number of power supplies...on the same day or on different days going through the AVR and the Variac or straight from the wall). Which is why I got a different power meter.

    I just through a another power supply on just for fun today:




    That unit is using 289w AC according the current transducer.....so I am going to go with the current transducer being correct So the problem is the Kill-A-Watt. While a cool little gadget and useful a lot of the time and accurate most of the time you have to watch yourself because it will bite you on the ass unlike you have portrayed.

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    Oh Kvar you seem to have disappeared again without answering my questions that you like to vaguely infer to know the answers too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spectre View Post
    Oh Kvar you seem to have disappeared again without answering my questions that you like to vaguely infer to know the answers too.
    chill a bit. i don't necessarily post reply to every thread when I'm on.
    I see a Brand Electronics power meter. Have you daisy chained the two? Since the Kill-A-Watt only use about a watt, this wouldn't affect the result much.

    Using that exact same setup, and you connect it like this:
    Wall-->brand electronics-->Kill-A-Watt-->loaded PSU, does the Kill-A-Watt read higher?

    If it does, well, I guess there's something up with your KAW. Your current transducer doesn't resolve PF, so you won't get real wattage from it unless you know for fact that the power factor is 1.0.

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    PS: could you show me your KAW actually showing a POWER FACTOR greater than 1.00 on screen as you said earlier?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kvar View Post
    chill a bit. i don't necessarily post reply to every thread when I'm on.
    I see a Brand Electronics power meter. Have you daisy chained the two? Since the Kill-A-Watt only use about a watt, this wouldn't affect the result much.
    Yes I have and the Kill-A-Watt is still wrong.

    If it does, well, I guess there's something up with your KAW
    I have been through 3 Kill-A-Watts they all do it with certain power supplies.

    Your current transducer doesn't resolve PF, so you won't get real wattage from it unless you know for fact that the power factor is 1.0.
    The power meter it is connected to does and with APFC on good units you can assume it is close enough to 1 to know that they Kill-A-Watt's are not working right.

    Besides I already know the Kill-A-Watt's don't work right about 25%-30% of the time. That wasn't what you inferred you knew. You inferred you knew why there was a problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kvar View Post
    PS: could you show me your KAW actually showing a POWER FACTOR greater than 1.00 on screen as you said earlier?
    IF I think about it I'll try and use the Kill-A-Watts to check power supplies as I get them but I don't use it anymore because being wrong 25% of the time is a huge problem.

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    Default Kill A Watt schematic and calibration procedure.

    Unable to upload quality images.
    Last edited by JOaT; 02-21-2011 at 11:13 AM. Reason: Unable to upload quality images

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    That's some unholy necromancy right there.
    Is your real name Kel'Thuzad by any chance?
    Careful what you wish for... You just might get it.

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