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Thread: The making of a case.

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    Default The making of a case.

    Some people give me too much credit. I see people think that because I work with Ultra that all of the sudden ALL Ultra products are better than ever.

    I'm flattered, but it doesn't work that way.

    I throw Ultra some ideas. They bounce some ideas off of me. Usually I just tell them they should go make something and they might go make it.

    Like the X3: I had nothing to do with that outside of telling them that they needed to go with a different OEM if they wanted a higher wattage unit. They were working with Wintech and an 800W unit when I started working with them and they ended up throwing that out the window (although it may get a second life as a high wattage V-Series. Who knows.)

    So... I wanted an upside down case. Not like the P180 either. I don't think that design makes any sense. I mean....

    Ok... You put the power supply on the bottom. So now the power supply is sucking heat from the area under the GPU's. Good. But now the CPU area loses that additional heat exhaust. Ok... we put a fan on the top. Fine. But because the board is still right side up, you're draping power supply cables across your motherboard. Big cables like 24-pin ATX and the 8-pin EPS12V. Sometimes the cables aren't long enough. Pain in the ass.

    So I asked the factory that makes the Aluminus to make an "upside down case." There's a bit of a language barrier and I suppose they've already seen the P180 and consider that an "upside down case" so what I get back is what you see below.

    Essentially, they just moved the motherboard tray up and moved the PSU down.

    Umm... NO. I mean, take the whole case and flip it upside down, but keep the feet at the bottom and keep the drive bays so the 5.25" are on top and 3.5" on the bottom.
    Last edited by Jon Gerow; 05-18-2007 at 05:39 AM.

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    Ok... So they get the hint and take an Aluminus and flip the whole thing upside down and put the feet back on the bottom. For the front, it was decided to just put 5.25" bays all of the way down and use drive tray adapters for hard drives. This gives the chassis some symmetry and helps solve the problem of tooling up a new bezel from scratch.
    Last edited by Jon Gerow; 05-18-2007 at 05:41 AM.

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    So I get the sample (shown in the last post) and it's really flimsy. It's made of the same aluminum as the Aluminus, but for some reason it's even more flimsy than the Aluminus.

    So I asked that the whole frame be made of steel, but make all of the panels except for the rear out of aluminum. I also suggested we make it black inside and out. I loved how the Aluminus looked in all black and wanted to see that here as well.

    I also suggested the fan on the top. They forgot that part on the prototype. DUH! I mean... You have the PSU fan still sucking heat off the CPU along with the rear fan, but what's the point of putting the video cards up on top if you can't give them extra active cooling?
    Last edited by Jon Gerow; 05-21-2007 at 07:57 AM.

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    Ok. So now the fan is in place, but now I'm worried about the power supply at the bottom. If you look at the pictures in the last post, you'll see that there's nothing supporting the X2 550W outside of being screwed to the back. If you use a really heavy power supply in there, it might bend. And I sure as hell wouldn't want to ship this thing with a PSU. So I suggested drilling multiple holes across the bottom and putting a bracket that went across that could be moved into whatever position to support the PSU.

    The engineers did one better. They built a big platform out of aluminum, made it vented (like an AC vent) and riveted it to the bottom. To make sure it could support even the heaviest power supply, I mounted a Koolance 1200W to it. Works like a CHARM!
    Last edited by Jon Gerow; 05-18-2007 at 05:43 AM.

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    Default

    Now that it's pretty much where I'd like it construction-wise, there's only two things left to do.

    I noticed that there is enough room on the top panel for a 135MM fan instead of a 120MM (of course the 135MM will be quieter) and there's enough room in the front for a 135MM as well. So I want to change the specs from 120MM to 135MM. Unfortunately, only a 120MM can fit in the back.

    I also want to replace the 5.25" drive bay pieces. Right now they're all plastic molded with honeycomb grills. But the plastic is thick and bulky. I'm hoping we can use a fine mesh and attach it to the 5.25" frames.

    We also have to make the 5.25" bay "knock outs" something that can be put back in if the user moves some things around the drive bays. I'm thinking we can just have a screw-in box that blocks the 5.25" bay to pull that off.

    All and all, this has been loads of fun. Anything I've done with cases with Ultra in the past has been, "YCC makes a case I like. Go buy it and slap your name on it." I can't wait to see how this pans out.

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    Now you need to work on a case that can have a WC system basically bolted in. Triple 120mm rad at the top, spot for a reservoir, spot for a pump. I've been waiting for a native WC case for ages.

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    Very neat, when can I buy one?

    Edit: Does this mean one day we may see "jonnyGURU" plastered all over everything like we do with Fatal1ty? Although, I wouldn't mind a jGURU edition PSU come to think of it.

    - JT
    Last edited by UncleJT; 05-17-2007 at 07:53 PM.
    This product does not support Win9X/ME!

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    So basically you wanted something similar to a Lian Li V1100, without the door or the center divider plate?

    I like it. But Please, please, please, pre-drilled holes with gromets for wire management.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bbq View Post
    So basically you wanted something similar to a Lian Li V1100, without the door or the center divider plate?

    I like it. But Please, please, please, pre-drilled holes with gromets for wire management.
    Pre drill holes where? Since there are no divider plates, there's nowhere to drill holes.

    I do want to drill holes in the back and add gromets for water hoses. Not sure how the rad mount on the top would work unless we pre-drilled three fan holes on the top and put block off plates over two of them that can be removed so a 2 or 3 fan rad can be added.
    Last edited by Jon Gerow; 05-18-2007 at 05:54 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnyGURU View Post
    Pre drill holes where? Since there are no divider plates, there's nowhere to drill holes.

    I do want to drill holes in the back and add gromets for water hoses. Not sure how the rad mount on the top would work unless we pre-drilled three fan holes on the top and pu block off plates over two of them that can be removed so a 2 or 3 fan rad can be added.
    Very good idea or you could cut the same size opening as a BIPIII has and just include a plate to cover it that has a single 120mm fan opening in the middle (the plate would mount from the top) and another that turns the opening into a double 120mm rad opening.

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