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Thread: Delta DPS-300AB-73B Teardown - Just how bare bones is a PSU from a HP Gaming PC???

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    Default Delta DPS-300AB-73B Teardown - Just how bare bones is a PSU from a HP Gaming PC???

    I recently acquired a Delta DPS-300AB-73B from a part out of a 3-year-old HP Pavillian Gaming desktop which had a G4600 and 1050ti.
    My friend sold me the motherboard + G4600 + this PSU. I sold the motherboard+CPU+hsf on ebay for more than I paid, making this PSU costs less than free. So how bad/good is cheaper than free PSU?

    Looking at the outside, it's rather basic. All silver outside without any powder coating, to be expected. Cables are of the non-modular variety, which is also expected. This PSU is standard ATX sized. It features 1x24pin, 1x4pin eps, 2x SATA power, and 1x slimline SATA power. All of these cables are ugly colored, short in length, and all of the wires seem to be of a rather thin feeling gauge and the wires themselves feel cheap. Heck, the whole unit feels cheap and is like 1/2 the weight of the next closest OEM PSU which happened to be a Liteon 250w from 16 years ago.
    https://ibb.co/VpZfkFs
    Don't worry, not all of the photos are this bad...

    Looking around the rear you find an 80mm exhaust fan as opposed to the 120mm variety on top. Also around back is a voltage selector so no active PFC here. Next door is a green LED that indicates the status of the PSU.
    https://ibb.co/c3mvZP0

    Here is a closeup of the label on the side.
    https://ibb.co/Q9nt0kL
    HP chose Delta to OEM this PSU. Delta is an OEM I like to see, however, this unit certainly isn't near the grade of their server power supplies. This unit claims to be "Standard Efficiency" and no 80+ certification is present on the label. The label claims it offers a maximum of 300w at 25c, which is the same temp rating as EVGA's N1 lineup. This says something about either how truly bad the N1 units are or how good this OEM unit is, I'm guessing the former... This unit uses a dual 12V rail design and combined these rails can supply 28A or 336w, which seems odd for a "300w" PSU. Regardless, plenty for the PC it was installed in.

    Cracking this unit open requires 4 Philips screws. The top, front, and bottom of this PSU come off as one piece as opposed to the top and sides like normal.
    https://ibb.co/zPxSw7D
    https://ibb.co/yNZx2Y1
    Most of the capacitors are Ltech branded but are at least mostly rated for 105c.
    https://ibb.co/Vq7w4fg
    The main electrolytics are CapXon branded and only rated at 85c
    https://ibb.co/QfjBm5k
    The fan is an 80mm Yate Loon D80SH-12 Ball Bearing model. Interestingly Delta opted not to use a Delta branded fan inside of this PSU, which surprised me since I have seen other countries like HiPro use Delta fans inside their PSUs.
    https://ibb.co/3sf5br0
    I was too lazy to dig around and find the protections IC tbh.

    Sorry about hosting the images externally, every upload I tried failed. Also, this is not a review of any capacity and as if it wasn't clear enough, I am definitely NOT an expert in computer power supplies, though I do enjoy learning and digging around inside them which is definitely not something I am qualified to do!

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    3 years old is pretty new, actually.

    Delta went with Yate Loon for the fan and Ltec and CapXon for the caps? Single layer PCB too.

    Man.. margins are getting SLIM.

    10 years ago, they would NEVER do that for a Dell PSU.

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    To be honest I was rather disappointed by it. I have mainly heard of Delta as good, but this unit doesn't seem to be to that level. I got some older hardware bundle to play with today and was disappointed that the eps connector isn't long enough to plug into the mobo in a case with bottom-mounted PSU. Granted that PC will get a nicer PSU eventually anyhow.

    Speaking of Dell and Yate Loon: The second most recent PSU I have (aside from my Corsair and EVGA stuff) is a Liteon 12v only SFF PSU from a SFF Dell Optiplex 7020. DOM around late 2014. It also uses a Yateloon 40mm ball-bearing fan IIRC.

    Whats specifically wrong with a single layer PCB in a PSU? I remember someone, perhaps you, saying a SeaSonic Core 650w wasn't very good and one of the reasons was a single layer PCB.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RyzenMaster View Post

    Whats specifically wrong with a single layer PCB in a PSU? I remember someone, perhaps you, saying a SeaSonic Core 650w wasn't very good and one of the reasons was a single layer PCB.
    Because you only have components on one side, you're limited to the circuit complexity. You have to keep your design very simply, which means leaving out a lot of potentially important components for increasing performance. Also, because you don't have an extra layer for increased conductivity, you can't hit higher efficiencies. You can only put so much power through a single layer before the resistance causes considerable losses.

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    Group regulated ... not very surprising for OEM PC with Pentium and GTX1050ti tho. And Delta is just another OEM, they're making what they were told to, if the design needs to be cheap then there would be cost downs.

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    I guess i'm not surprised group regulation was used.

    I was a little surprised about the use of passive PFC though.

    Makes sense why the single layer PCB is bad.

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    Also here is the bottom of the pcb.
    https://ibb.co/tXpqQtJ

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    Quote Originally Posted by RyzenMaster View Post
    I was a little surprised about the use of passive PFC though.
    This unit doesn't have passive PFC - it doesn't have PFC at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by RyzenMaster View Post
    This unit uses a dual 12V rail design and combined these rails can supply 28A or 336w, which seems odd for a "300w" PSU.
    Nothing on the label says they can supply 28A combined. We don't know the output capacity of the 12V source in this PSU, and the declared OCP limits on each rail are unrelated to it.

    3 years isn't a really long time for a PSU, but still it looks pretty clean inside to me.

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    Ah ok.

    PSU was never cleaned out to my knowledge. Not even by me. Not worth bothering.
    The previous owner did somehow snip a ground wire trying to remove a zip tie so I had to fix that.

    So how does the lack of PFC work with regards to switching voltage range? The unit says on the label "117-127v" and "200-240v" under the Input and does have a voltage switch, though I notice there are only 2 wires on the switch so it essentially just open some circuit when you switch it to 240v.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RyzenMaster View Post
    Most of the capacitors are Ltech branded but are at least mostly rated for 105c.

    The main electrolytics are CapXon branded and only rated at 85c

    The fan is an 80mm Yate Loon D80SH-12 Ball Bearing model.

    The only thing that would worry me are the Ltec capacitors, but maybe they have got much better.

    No need for 105C bulk capacitors if there is no APFC

    Why use a double sided board if single sided will do the job.

    I'm the sort of person that would keep using that supply, after perhaps replacing the Ltec secondary capacitors.


    Quote Originally Posted by RyzenMaster View Post
    So how does the lack of PFC work with regards to switching voltage range? The unit says on the label "117-127v" and "200-240v" under the Input and does have a voltage switch, though I notice there are only 2 wires on the switch so it essentially just open some circuit when you switch it to 240v.

    See the attached diagram of the voltage doubler trick.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by ashiekh; 05-28-2020 at 01:20 PM.

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