I HAVE READ BOTH THE FAQ AND THE STICKY POSTS AS WELL AS SOME REVIEWS BUT I AM STILL CONFUSED (LISTED AT THE END) PLEASE ANSWER AS MANY AS YOU CAN IF NOT SEND MI LINKS TO INFO, WHAT I CARE THE MOST ABOUT IS:

PC POWER CONSUMPTION BREAKDOWN FOR MY CURRENT COMPUTER AND A HIGH-END COMPUTER WITH:



4-8 STICKS OF GSKILL TRIDENT RGB

HIGH END VGA (LIKE 1080 TI) OVERCLOCKED TO THE LIMIT

8700K (ALSO OVERCLOCKED)

HDD + M.2 NVME SSD + SATA SSD



(IF I WANT TO UPGRADE LATER ON AND DON'T WANT TO BUY A NEW PSU)
I AM NOT SPECIALLY CONCERNED ABOUT EFFIFIENCY OR NOISE.

ALSO

WHAT TO LOOK AT WHEN IT COMES TO QUALITY

I mean, DOES IT MATTER IF THE PSU HAS X OR W SWITCHING TRANSISTOR,F IT'S HALF-BRIDGE, FULL-BRIDGE, LLC-REASONANT I DON'T KNOW WHAT, like

¿TEAPO OR NIPPON-CHEMI CON, RUBYCON ETC? MOV or TVS diode? Do you even need it if your PSU features APFC? 10mv vs 100mv CAN YOU TELL THE DIFFERENCE, what is more important? low ripple, low voltage regulation, in which rail? 12V, 3.3V? in which case? crossload, transient response?

IS IT WORTH IT TO GET SOMETHING LIKE BE QUIET DARK POWER PRO, CORSAIR RMX, SEASONIC PRIME FOR MI PC? Or it's just overkill?


Sorry if it's too long thanks in advance

PC:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/YZ4ckd

I didn't find all the exact parts that I have so I'll list them below:

stock cooler
asrock H81M VG4 R2.0 motherboard
1TB hitachi drive 7200RPM (I don't know what exact model it is)
Acteck P507 dubai generic case
DVD drive (DVD-R DL RW rewritable ultra speed that's all the label says)
Very low-end, generic PSU (pixxo 600W)


Country: Mexico

Budget: I could spend 10,0000 mxn (or 500 USD, but do keep in mind that prices in my country are a little bit higher than in the US) but only if it's worth the money.

Stores:

Amazon.mx (imported sometimes)

Newegg (imported)

Mercadolibremx

Intercompras.mx

PCX


This are the cheapest:



Dimercom

Zegucom cómputo

Pcmig

Humancomputer.mx

Cyberpuerta.mx

PCaccesorios

Digital Life

Supermex



MORE:

Pedidos.com

Highpro.mx

supertienda.mx

DDtech


Now the questions:

1.- HOW LONG DO YOU THINK THIS WILL LAST?

I guess it depends on many factors and it's hard to say without any hint of its internals

https://www.mipc.com.mx/fuente-de-po...oaAl2IEALw_wcB

I have used it for almost three years with the rig above and never had a problem

2.- HOW MUCH POWER DO YOU THINK THIS PULLS UNDER LOAD?

I mean the very highest power figure.

https://outervision.com/b/aQEUKd

According to this I need 314W minimum and 364W recommended but If I bump up the clock rate to 1343 (my GPU runs at 1342 boost clock at least based on EVGA's product page) I get 342W minimum and 392W recommended

But I have head here that thos calculatos tend to give you values that are way above what you would need


To make matters worse I find this article and realize that a somewhat similar configuration (strix 950, i3 4160, 2x8gb ram, 2 ssds, 3 fans, Z87) does 205.8W UNDER MAXIMUM LOAD

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2...upplies/Page-3

SO IN YOUR EXPERIENCE WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO FIGURE OUT WHAT PSU WATTAGE TO PICK. DOES IT MATTER IF YOU HAVE RGB RAM OR NOT, IF ITS 2400 OR 3600, IF YOU HAVE ONE TYPE OF HARD DRIVE OR ANOTHER, ETC? I ASSUME EVERY PART THAT'S PLUGGED INTO THE PC MATTERS EVEN PERIPHERALS BUT I MIGHT BE WRONG.


If I take this guy's videos it gives me an even higher number.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga7kCqspDrk

But I almost discarted him as he takes into account efficiency and does some weird stuff to get to the estimate the way I see it he doesn't seem to know much that's why I come here. So

3.- WILL 300W SUFFICE? if my PC power draw has spikes all the way up to let's say, 310W could a 300W PSU handle it?

I AM MESSED UP WITH WATTS, AMPS AND VOLTS,

4.- DOES VOLTAGE REGULATION AND RIPPLE HAVE TO DO WITH TOTAL POWER, I GUESS IT DOES, IF THE VOLTAGE GOES FROM 12V TO 12.1V THE WATTAGE INCREASES ACCORDINGLY, OR IS THE AMPERAGE WHAT SHRINKS AND W REMAINS THE SAME?

5.- I DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW A PSU OUTPUTS LESS POWER AS TEMPERATURE INCREASES, ISN'T OPP/OCP PROTECTION WHAT LIMITS HOW MUCH YOU CAN PULL OFF? OR THIS HAS TO DO WITH BRIDGE RECTIFIERS, TRANSFORMERS AND STUFF? AS THEY GET HOTTER THEIR EFFICIENCY DIMINISHES RIGHT?


Please explain

6.- NOW THIS PSUS SAYS IT CAN DO FULL 360W ON THE 12V RAIL

http://www2.seasonic.com/product/g-360/

BUT IS THAT ONLY IF ALL CURRENT COMES FROM THE 12 V RAIL OR YOU CAN GET THE COMBINED WATTAGE OF ALL RAILS THAT IS 453.6W. IS IT LIKE SPLITTING RAILS? I MEAN, THERE ARE FOUR RAILS CAPABLE OF DELIEVERING 30A EACH BUT YOU CAN ONLY LOAD THEM ALL TO 100A FOR EXAMPLE?

correct me If I'm wrong

NOW SPEAKING OF RAILS

TO MY UNDERSTANDING MULTI-RAIL IS BETTER THAN SINGLE-RAIL. BUT ALL HIGH PERFORMANCE PSUS I SEE LATELY OPT FOR SINGLE-RAIL. I WATCH A VIDEO FROM LTT WHICH SAYS MOST MODERN-PSUS CLAIM TO BE SINGLE-RAIL BUT HAVE MULTIRAIL INTERNALLY. IS THAT TRUE?

Also I saw that OCP can't exist if you have a PSU with a single-rail design. You rely on OPP instead for protection.

__________________________________________________ ________

Sorry if this goes a bit out of topic but I don't get any of those things. Back to PSU selection, I wonder how low I could go in therms of watts but I don't think I am going 300W because I see people here saying that no good PSU is 300W because they are group regulated

7.- IS GROUP REGULATED THAT BAD?, Does that affect me if I want to overclock my GPU and probably the same goes to my CPU if I upgrade to ryzen or intel 8th gen? I read anything after 4th gen should use DC-DC psu