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Thread: Cooler Master Masterwatt Maker 1200W Review

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    Arrow Cooler Master Masterwatt Maker 1200W Review

    We're back with Cooler Master today. Not too long ago, we looked at their new flagship model, the super exclusive and super expensive Masterwatt Maker Made in Japan 1200W. Well, the next one down, the regular Masterwatt Maker 1200W, promises to be a fair bit more affordable while bringing with it all the features a high end unit is known for, like software monitoring. Even so, it still comes with a hefty price tag. Let's see if it's worth it.
    http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php...Story&reid=512

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    -The_Mask- (04-03-2017), crmaris (04-03-2017), DaveLT (05-02-2017), ehume (04-04-2017), Hardwired_Berg (04-03-2017), Internet (04-04-2017), Nuckles_56 (04-03-2017), Philipus II (04-03-2017), quest for silence (04-03-2017), Tator Tot (04-03-2017)

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    Yikes, Cooler Master, what on earth were you thinking?

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    You also broke the power switch? Mine died without much of an effort. Glued it in place so the PSU works fine now, without it

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    The build quality of the button switch is extremely fragile - mine lost the ability to latch when I removed the innards from the housing, so it would only allow the unit to turn on if you held it in by hand.

    I just took it out so it would always be on whenever the power cord was plugged in.

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    this is what happened to mine as well!

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    Can we see the inside of the bluetooth dongle?

    EDIT: Nevermind, looked it up on FCC's Website.. That soldering on the programmable pin header? i think

    Bluetooth module Datasheet

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    Yeah, after six months of waiting for the second unit and having to worry about my father being in the hospital last week, I am not spending one more second on this unit only to look at the dongle.

    I'm lucky to be getting anything ready at all for next week.

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    NVM. Shoulda had more faith in Wolfie.
    CPU: Core i7 8700k, HT enabled, all 6 cores OC'd to 4.8GHz, Vcore = 1.24v
    Heatsink: Noctua NH-D15 with one NF-A15 1500 RPM PWM fan
    Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370X Aorus Gaming 7
    RAM: 4x16GB (64GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 RAM 16-18-18-36@3200MHz, Vdimm = 1.35v
    GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 DirectX 12 with 8GB 256-Bit GDDR5X
    SSD1: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB TLC; SSD2: SAMSUNG 860 EVO 1TB 3-bit MLC
    HD: WD 500GB (old); Case: LIAN LI PC-7H Aluminum ATX Mid Tower
    PSU: Seasonic Platinum 660W

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    "One of four double PCIe cables. 16 AWG to the first connector, 18 to the second." However they were double ribbons.

    Why not make them double cables all the way back to the plug? What was the sense of CM doing it this way?
    CPU: Core i7 8700k, HT enabled, all 6 cores OC'd to 4.8GHz, Vcore = 1.24v
    Heatsink: Noctua NH-D15 with one NF-A15 1500 RPM PWM fan
    Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370X Aorus Gaming 7
    RAM: 4x16GB (64GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 RAM 16-18-18-36@3200MHz, Vdimm = 1.35v
    GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 DirectX 12 with 8GB 256-Bit GDDR5X
    SSD1: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB TLC; SSD2: SAMSUNG 860 EVO 1TB 3-bit MLC
    HD: WD 500GB (old); Case: LIAN LI PC-7H Aluminum ATX Mid Tower
    PSU: Seasonic Platinum 660W

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    Quote Originally Posted by ehume View Post
    "One of four double PCIe cables. 16 AWG to the first connector, 18 to the second." However they were double ribbons.

    Why not make them double cables all the way back to the plug? What was the sense of CM doing it this way?
    What do you mean?

    Four wires on one strand are +12V. The other four are ground.

    It looks like only five leads go to the second PCIe.

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    ehume (04-04-2017)

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