PC PSU "repair" (it starts but shuts down after 1 sec)

[minus0]

Hello guys! I need some help.
I am trying to repair my PC Power Supply. I have a Thermaltake LitePower 600W. I know what are you going to say about this model, i understand that is not a "corsair" or an "antec" or "evga", please allow me to quickly explain what happened:
#1. During a storm, the 230V wall socket damaged my Belkin 230V socket multiplier.
#2. More than ~100V was induced into the "ground protection" wire.
#3. I found out that the apartment doesnt have the "ground protection" connected.
#4. So my pc PowerSupply received ~230V + 160V(200V) on ground protection.
#5. My Power Supply died after running several weeks with this incorrect additional Voltage.
#6. Only the pc PSU died. The other components of my desktop are fine.
#7. When i try to start the PSU, it starts but after 1 second it stops.
#8. When i say "it starts" i mean the PSU fan is rotating and i have 12V,5V,3V output for a second.

I have measured the voltages inside the PSU. I have attached photos.
Voltages:
A= ~ 230 V ~
B= ~ 230 V ~
C= + 317 V
D= + 317 V

OPTOCOUPLERS model= 817B
OPTOCOUPLERS O1-O2-O3 [STANDBY MODE](when the PSU is not "running")
Optocoupler 1 :
PIN1-PIN2= 1 V
PIN3-PIN4= 0.8 V
Optocoupler 2:
PIN1-PIN2= 0 V
PIN3-PIN4= 19 V
Optocoupler 3:
PIN1-PIN2= 0 V
PIN3-PIN4= 2.1 V

OPTOCOUPLERS O1-O2-O3 [POWER-ON MODE](running 2 seconds)
O1 : nothing(same voltage)
O2 : nothing(same voltage)
O3 : PIN3-PIN4= increasing to 8.5 V [ FROM 2.1 V ]

The +5VSB is present, from the small transformer, byt without the schematics, i dont know all the points that must have +5V SB.

Important DETAIL: When i measure the output voltages +12V +5V +3V, i have noticed something:
When i measure the G point(see photo), the +5V is draining very very fast. The DigitalMultimeter is hardly able to read the +4V(5V) it reads +2.xx V.
When i measure the +12V, is slowly decreasing 11V, 10V, 8V, etc, 1V to zero.
Same thing for +3.3V, the voltage drops to Zero, Slowly.
The PSU is not connected to anything, it has no LOAD

I have replaced a N-channel MOSFET(FDPF 13N50Z), you can see the dark spot on the PCB(on primary stage of course).

Does anyone have any ideea where it might be the problem? Is it in the primary stage? or secondary stage? Can anyone help me to identify the BAD component?

i dont know if this helps but here are my pc specs:

PSU: Thermaltake LitePower 600W
CPU: AMD FX 6350(default)
Mainboard: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3
RAM: HyperX Savage 32GB DDR3 1866Mhz(running at 1600Mhz)
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 660

NOTE: I already searched the web, i also read the PSU101 article from the site, i have learned some things but i cant figure it out, the problem. I dont have the schematics and this makes it very difficult for me(for everybody).

ps:the Belkin device damaged my pc PSU by delivering ADDITIONAL ILLEGAL ~200V on the protection line, non-stop after the storm, until i found out that the Belkin device was delivering ~230V plus additional ~200V(on the protection) to my PC.

[Jon Gerow]

Hello guys! I need some help.
I am trying to repair my PC Power Supply. I have a Thermaltake LitePower 600W. I know what are you going to say about this model, i understand that is not a "corsair" or an "antec" or "evga"

We wouldn't do that. This isn't Tom's Hardware.

Your images aren't showing up. Try attaching them instead. I see you already attached three. Can you attach the rest?

IMHO: The PSU is just plain fried. Just replace it.

[-The_Mask-]

You can right click and open in new tab or copy past the link.

[Jon Gerow]

I know. But I dont want to. ;-)

[yojo2]

Isn't this PSU made by Solytech? I know the lower wattage models with designation ending in "L" are made by this OEM.

If so, I'd definitely scrap it.

[Cyrix]

We wouldn't do that. This isn't Tom's Hardware.



Your images aren't showing up. Try attaching them instead. I see you already attached three. Can you attach the rest?

IMHO: The PSU is just plain fried. Just replace it.

Mentioning TH is a bannable offense

Yeah were more openminded than other sites, just ask wolfie and jonny

[asf14tomcat]

seem it had short-circuit somewhere. Lets check resistance between -12v and GND?. most of PSU use a diode for this rails (some use 7912 regulator). and sometime this diode fail suddently .

[Behemot]

Well it's definitelly not suddenly, in this case the unit had much lower potential against ground so it was most likely under higher stress. ATX PSUs are usually ground referenced.

However I just don't get how appartment can have ground not connected Ws that aluminium installation which got loose?

[minus0]

Thank you all for replying, i really need some help in order to identify the bad component and i know it is very difficult without the schematics. This is what happened:

#1. The PC was running day & night for about ~3months.
#2. GPU load= 0% , CPU load= 100% , Temps were normal. OS stable.
#3. Multiple interruptions of ~230V main power grid occured in different days. MainPowerGrid interrupts, entire block had no electricity.
#4. The PC remained OFF(because BIOS setting), i restarted myself everytime when the power grid was ON again.
#5. The Desktop powered ON normally, and ran 100% LOAD normally, no errors.
#6. The Desktop was connected to a Belkin socket device all the time, and since i knew it had protection for overvoltage, i wasn't worry about it.
#7. During those "power downs & power up's", the Belkin device DAMAGED but it kept delivering power to the PC.
#8. The Belkin device was delivering ~230V + 200V on the protection line.(alternative curent of course).
#9. The PC ran several weeks with this additional HIGH VOLTAGE until the PSU died.
#10. i've noticed that the PC was off so i said that it must've been another PowerDown mainGrid problem. So i tried to Turn the Pc ON but it turned ON for 1 sec, after that it turned OFF.
#11. in That moment i knew something is wrong and i started to check the ~230V wall socket, the Belkin device, and the PSU.
#12. The main Building already has a new electrical network(~230V) with DIGITAL Kwh meters.
#13. The apartment has only 2 wires in the wall socket. The protection line is missing. (i am not the owner of the apartment)
#14. After testing i found out that the wall socket delivers ~230V which is normal.
#15. But the Belkin device delivers two separate Voltages (NOT GOOD AT ALL). As i said, the PC was recieving the usual ~230V , plus additional ~200V.

@Behemot the 3rd wire, the protection line is missing, there only 2 wires in the walls.

@asf14tomcat thanks for the idea, i will re-check all the diodes again. there is one diode, SMD type, that it is in paralel with a rezistor(SMDtype also) and i couldnt measure it.

@Cyrix i was kind of worried because i dont know how other people(and moderators) would react to anything(companies names,products names, etc)
The fact that you are more openminded than other sites, makes me more relaxed

@yojo2 i cant know for sure, i guess it could be made by Solytech. Shouldnt be the PCB labeled with the name of the factory?

@jonnyGURU sorry for the photo links, the "attach function" is very useful and i will use it from now on.

For an average PSU, this one looked ok to me, i am sad that it died and i am glad that the rest of my components(mainboard,cpu,gpu,hdd) are fine.
The fact that everytime when i power ON the PSU, it starts, and deliver the output voltages for 1 second, doesnt that means that....it may not be fried(dead) ?

[Behemot]

TN-C circuit, that's all right as long as the PEN is attached properly.

Was the second voltage in phase or 90° apart or what?