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Your eyes, maybe. Have you watched The Hobbit in 3d? Motion blur and flicker like whoa.
I cannot comment to that as (1) my eyes are 61 years old, (2) I have not seen the movie at a theater, and (3) until the 2nd generation of realistic 3D without special glasses comes to the home TV, I probably won't see it in 3D.

And that really is way off in time, and the thread's topic of UPS electronics lifespans.

The whole point I was trying to make is power anomalies of duration to cause lights to flicker is more than long enough to cause ATX compliant PSUs to shut down.

2. And my point is, my 4yo and I can see flickers far, far shorter than the ATX spec of 16ms.
You're also assuming that the PSU is loaded to 80% (I think that's the test point, or is it 100%?) at the time of the flicker.
My HALE90V2 1KW when cruising along at 200w load can handle an awfully long dropout, it has, multiple times.

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You're also assuming that the PSU is loaded to 80%

I make an strong effort to say what I mean. Please do not attempt to put words in my mouth - Thanks.

My HALE90V2 1KW when cruising along at 200w load can handle an awfully long dropout, it has, multiple times.
Now you are the one making assumptions - that (1) your PSU is somehow representative of all PSUs and (2), that the percentage of load has a direct correlation with hold-times. Neither is true.

4. Actually, the hold-up time is inversely proportional to load level. This is actually a logical matter, since losing AC input means the PSU will drain the primary cap(s) to supply power to the DC load. If that drain is 5 times lower than maximum, the hold-up time should be 5 times as long, approximately.

5. The Following User Says Thank You to McSteel For This Useful Post:

bobnova (03-23-2013)

6. Originally Posted by Digerati
Designed to self-heat the batteries??? Umm, I don't think so. You don't want your batteries to freeze, but they are not designed to be intentionally heated either - since these UPS are designed for indoor use only, they should never be exposed to extreme temperatures - in storage, or in use.
What I meant by that comment is that the way the UPS is built, the heat from the circuitry keeps the entire unit batts and all fairly warm. The battery compartment is squashed against the electronics, and the only vent for the entire unit is a tiny ~30mm fan. And said fan only spins when the unit is on battery power. The old UPS had considerably more venting and space inside despite the lower ratings, and that was more than enough to keep the internals cool.

Originally Posted by Digerati
BTW - Radio Shack will take your old batteries off your hands for recycling and keep them out of landfills. And not just SLA batteries, but lithium (CMOS) type batteries too. Kudos to RS for that.
Good to know! There's a dozen laws on 'em so any place selling SLAs has to accept them back for recycling, for most states at least. I've been recycling mine at the local computer shop chain.

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Originally Posted by Kougar
What I meant by that comment is that the way the UPS is built, the heat from the circuitry keeps the entire unit batts and all fairly warm.
Heat is mostly from how the electronics keep a battery charged. A cheapest method is to constantly charge the battery with a tiny current. Battery gets warmer. A constant charge that low is not harmful to the battery.

Let's put numbers to that heat. Suppose a battery is heated by an excessively high 20 watts from electronics and inside the battery. Well above what would actually exist. Cooling provided by a 30 mm fan means temperature inside is about 12 degrees higher - about 82 degrees F. That number ignores heat also radiated via the case. Meaning that worst case temperature would be even lower. Well below what is harmful to a battery.

8. Your numbers are lacking in backing, as usual.
What 30mm fan? What RPM? What blade profile? What battery? What battery case? How large is the case? Where is the battery in relation to the fan? How many passive ventilation openings are there in the UPS housing?

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