Thermaltake Air Cooling... Looking for feedback

[Tt enthusiasts]

Many of you im sure have seen a Thermaltake cooler offering, possibly many and may have even used them at one point or maybe many times. Please tell me about your experience, feel free to let us know anything you would like to see, implemented, changed, improved, etc.

let us know how we can make it better for you.

[Phaedrus2129]

Owned a Thermaltake V1 (copper version). Looked nice, did well for a dual core, utterly sucked for a quad core.

For the most part it seems like you're basing your cooling products on copying Zalman products that haven't been updated or improved since 2005. Get with the program, add more fins, more heatpipes, better fans (higher CFM, higher static pressure, lower noise, and damn the extra cost), etc.

I know you said air cooling, but your water cooling is crap and is a hazard to peoples' PCs. I've seen four different PCs damaged or destroyed by Tt watercooling products since 2008, more than I've seen from all other WCing companies combined (discounting obvious user error). Fix it.

[Original Sin]

Check out this article (http://lab501.ro/racire/zerotherm-zt-10d-premium-si-thermaltake-frio-doua-coolere-pentru-overclockeri)(Google translate should do the trick), where your best air cooler(Frio) is put through its paces along side a ZT10D Premium and a Megashadow. Poor to average base for an overclocking cooler, very poor retention mechanism.

[Tt enthusiasts]

Owned a Thermaltake V1 (copper version). Looked nice, did well for a dual core, utterly sucked for a quad core.

For the most part it seems like you're basing your cooling products on copying Zalman products that haven't been updated or improved since 2005. Get with the program, add more fins, more heatpipes, better fans (higher CFM, higher static pressure, lower noise, and damn the extra cost), etc.

I know you said air cooling, but your water cooling is crap and is a hazard to peoples' PCs. I've seen four different PCs damaged or destroyed by Tt watercooling products since 2008, more than I've seen from all other WCing companies combined (discounting obvious user error). Fix it.

I have no problem confronting this at all, but I must ask have you even looked at a recent cooler offering from Tt. The Frio and Frio OCK are some of the top Air coolers out right now.

as for the Bigwater please feel free to explain how it is a hazard. I understand previously there were some issues with Acrylic topped blocks and cracking, but those models have been replaced and how the blocks are a newer design with a composite top which we have not experienced any cracking or issues with.

Have you looked at the recent offerings?

[Tt enthusiasts]

Check out this article (http://lab501.ro/racire/zerotherm-zt-10d-premium-si-thermaltake-frio-doua-coolere-pentru-overclockeri)(Google translate should do the trick), where your best air cooler(Frio) is put through its paces along side a ZT10D Premium and a Megashadow. Poor to average base for an overclocking cooler, very poor retention mechanism.

The Frio and Frio OCK has been used and recommended by many overclockers including myself... (pretest not actual benchmarking thats reserved for cascade or LN2)

I would agree the original Frio mounting could be better but the Frio OCK uses the new mounting style.

[Phaedrus2129]

I have to admit I haven't looked closely in a while. As for water cooling, I remember some pretty dramatic pictures of coolant gunk and corrosion.

[Tt enthusiasts]

I have to admit I haven't looked closely in a while. As for water cooling, I remember some pretty dramatic pictures of coolant gunk and corrosion.

Corrosion would be avoided if using an anti corrosion additive which our coolant has within it straight out of the box, but alot of the gunking I had seen was from using straight water with no anti algae additive or corrosion inhibitors.

[Tator Tot]

There's plenty of cases around the web of the acrylic cracking in Tt water products, tubes leaking due to the barbs / tubing used. And the clamps not being strong enough.

I would never recommend any current water cooling product that Tt sells, to anyone looking to get into that scene.
I've seen too many horror stories of dead hardware, combined with Tt support giving consumers the run around.

[Tt enthusiasts]

There's plenty of cases around the web of the acrylic cracking in Tt water products, tubes leaking due to the barbs / tubing used. And the clamps not being strong enough.

I would never recommend any current water cooling product that Tt sells, to anyone looking to get into that scene.
I've seen too many horror stories of dead hardware, combined with Tt support giving consumers the run around.

Please let me know if there are any support issues as I can take care of that quickly.

as for the acrylic cracking as I already said we are aware of the issues that were observed which is why most all manufacturers no longer offer acrylic blocks...

our blocks are now a composite offering which we have seen no issues with.

thank you for the feedback.

[Tator Tot]

If I do see any more members getting the run around, I'll send them your way.

Still, I'd have to see for myself; not only good temps, but long term reliability from Tt's water cooling products.

If anything, my suggestion would be to go with a reputable pump manufacturer like Laing or Jingway. As for blocks, do what you do with PSU's and show the customers the innards of them.
By that, I mean show the users your block's innards, with the pin grid and what not.

I'd also make sure you send the product(s) off to people who know what they're doing. Like Martin & Skinnee @ Skinnee Labs. (http://skinneelabs.com/)

[Tt enthusiasts]

If I do see any more members getting the run around, I'll send them your way.

Still, I'd have to see for myself; not only good temps, but long term reliability from Tt's water cooling products.

If anything, my suggestion would be to go with a reputable pump manufacturer like Laing or Jingway. As for blocks, do what you do with PSU's and show the customers the innards of them.
By that, I mean show the users your block's innards, with the pin grid and what not.

I'd also make sure you send the product(s) off to people who know what they're doing. Like Martin & Skinnee @ Skinnee Labs. (http://skinneelabs.com/)

Im already working on some LCS testers... unfortunately as im sure you know Martin kinda dropped out of the game quite some time ago... so im working with Skinee to get some testing done.

but now you bring a very interesting issue to the table. you say good temps but I would venture to ask what is good?

The bigwater is not designed to replace high end watercooling, if your running 5+GHz sandy bridge setup your not gonna be using a Bigwater. I run a custom LCS because I need it for what I run, but for someone looking to get away from a stock cooler or something better than most air coolers the Bigwater is a good option for them. I think this really comes down to using the right tool for the job, Im an overclocker I wouldnt use the bigwater as I need more thermal capacity but for a regular gaming rig I would use one no problem as im not pushing it to that extreme.

[Tator Tot]

Good temps in relation to the cost of the solution you're using.

An easy example is the XSPC Rasa 750-RS240 or RS360 kits are priced close to or at the price of the Big Water 760 Plus($130-150); but easily have temperature differences of 10*C on an i7-860 or i7-2600K

For $10-20 more you can get an XSPC Rasa RX based kit (either RX240 or RX360) and net even better temps while using slower fans.

[Tt enthusiasts]

Good temps in relation to the cost of the solution you're using.

An easy example is the XSPC Rasa 750-RS240 or RS360 kits are priced close to or at the price of the Big Water 760 Plus($130-150); but easily have temperature differences of 10*C on an i7-860 or i7-2600K

For $10-20 more you can get an XSPC Rasa RX based kit (either RX240 or RX360) and net even better temps while using slower fans.

Give me a day or 2 and I will be happy to setup a Bigwater 760Plus and test this for you.

can you link me to teh results so I know what clock speed and etc I will be comparing to?


Thank you

[Tator Tot]

Boards I'll leave up to your choice; but from what I've looked at:
Core i7 2600K @ 5Ghz / 1.52v
Core i7 860 @ 4.4Ghz / 1.48v

If you could, Phenom II x6 @ 4.4Ghz / 1.55v or FX-8120 @ 5.5Ghz / 1.6v

[x.clay]

The only Tt air cooler I have used was the DuOrb Extreme and SpinQ VT. The DuOrb Extreme was used on an ATI 4890 and ATI 5850. The cooling was good but it didn't come with good VRM heatsinks (common issue with universal graphic card heatsinks). The heatsink came with an in-line fan control knob on the power cable which is definitely better than not having a controller but I would prefer to be able to plug the unit into a fan controller and be able to monitor fan speeds and noise without having to open my case. I thought the quality on this unit was good. I would have liked the blue LEDs to be brighter/crisper and would have liked a better heatsink bundle.

I have also briefly used a SpinQ VT as a backup cooler. This is more style over cooling ability so it didn't meet my needs long term but it looks unique. I am not a huge fan of push-pin mounting systems.

[mdk777]

Well, if you really want to do some competitive testing for mass market appeal:

The FX-8150 appears to OC very high but with thermal loads that would bury most air coolers.

I have the Antec KUHLER H2O 920 at around $100.

I'm thinking of getting the CORSAIR H100 (CWCH100) Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler at around $120.

If you would show me better results with a comparable Tt system, i would certainly consider it...and the market for these all in one solutions is very large.

Looking forward to seeing your test results either way ; Tator tot challenge or mine.:D

[Original Sin]

Well, if you really want to do some competitive testing for mass market appeal:

The FX-8150 appears to OC very high but with thermal loads that would bury most air coolers.

I have the Antec KUHLER H2O 920 at around $100.

I'm thinking of getting the CORSAIR H100 (CWCH100) Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler at around $120.

If you would show me better results with a comparable Tt system, i would certainly consider it...and the market for these all in one solutions is very large.

Looking forward to seeing your test results either way ; Tator tot challenge or mine.:D
Neither would perform very well on a bulldozer system.. we're talking about huge TDP scenarios.. check out the link I left on the front page to see how well the Frio does agains the(ancient by now) Megashadow, they've done some good things with it(soldered fins and heat pipes) but the base is lacking and the mounting is lacking even more(pressure wise).

As for the H100, it's very poor @ low RPM, the dense fin arrangement of the radiator means you need benching fans for serious overclocks(especially on a monster like bulldozer) and it still trails an NH-D14 with TY-140 fans ;)
AIO liquid cooling solutions are still shit.

@ Tt rep,
Most reviewers have no idea what they're talking about, testing an overclocking cooler on a stock Deneb or SandyB is like slicing bread with a Katana and calling it an awesome blade, Frio is a decent cooler, it has some things going for it, but similarly it has some severe drawbacks.. in high TDP scenarios it can't hold a candle to the Super Mega/Megahalems/Genesis, NH-D14, Archon/Silver Arrow/Venomus etc.

What I'd also like to see from you is coolers designed for post pubescent people.. cheap plastic and a rainbow of colors is not something I look for when searching after enthusiast grade hardware.

[mdk777]

As for the H100, it's very poor @ low RPM, the dense fin arrangement of the radiator means you need benching fans for serious overclocks(especially on a monster like bulldozer) and it still trails an NH-D14 with TY-140 fans
AIO liquid cooling solutions are still shit.

Thanks, I expected as much.
Just curious if the "bigwater" or "XSPC Rasa 750-RS240 or RS360 kits" kits are enough of a step up either.

I really am too lazy to go all out....I just want something "Better than stock" that would let me OC Bulldozer easily without costing more than the CPU itself.:D

But then again, I would like unicorns to trim my grass and dragons to burn off the leaves. ;)

[Original Sin]

Thanks, I expected as much.
Just curious if the "bigwater" or "XSPC Rasa 750-RS240 or RS360 kits" kits are enough of a step up either.
np, I only heard good things about the XSPC gear but that's all I can say about them.. honestly, a solution that does well on Gulftown or Nehalem(1.7v, high clocks & Prime where the leakage is huge) should do well on Bulldozer too.

But then again, I would like unicorns to trim my grass and dragons to burn off the leaves. ;)
haha, god I hate unicorns..

[SEOGlopex]

Quote:





Originally Posted by Tator Tot


If I do see any more members getting the run around, I'll send them your way.

Still, I'd have to see for myself; not only good temps, but long term reliability from Tt's water cooling products.

If anything, my suggestion would be to go with a reputable pump manufacturer like Laing or Jingway. As for blocks, do what you do with PSU's and show the customers the innards of them.
By that, I mean show the users your block's innards, with the pin grid and what not.

I'd also make sure you send the product(s) off to people who know what they're doing. Like Martin & Skinnee @ Skinnee Labs.




Im already working on some LCS testers... unfortunately as im sure you know Martin kinda dropped out of the game quite some time ago... so im working with Skinee to get some testing done.

but now you bring a very interesting issue to the table. you say good temps but I would venture to ask what is good?

The bigwater is not designed to replace high end watercooling, if your running 5+GHz sandy bridge setup your not gonna be using a Bigwater. I run a custom LCS because I need it for what I run, but for someone looking to get away from a stock cooler or something better than most air coolers the Bigwater is a good option for them. I think this really comes down to using the right tool for the job, Im an overclocker I wouldnt use the bigwater as I need more thermal capacity but for a regular gaming rig I would use one no problem as im not pushing it to that extreme.
Thank you for that... good share.... :-) ..
However, on other note:
Boards I'll leave up to your choice; but from what I've looked at:
Core i7 2600K @ 5Ghz / 1.52v
Core i7 860 @ 4.4Ghz / 1.48v

If you could, Phenom II x6 @ 4.4Ghz / 1.55v or FX-8120 @ 5.5Ghz / 1.6v

[Tt enthusiasts]

Well guys as I said just a few posts before all of the sudden were talking about 2 different situations here... not everyone is running a 2600K at 5GHz and if you are your usually using a higher end liquid cooler...

The Bigwater 760 Plus is not going to compare against an H100 on and ralistic term..... thats a Closed loop system, the 760 plus is a totally different solution... granted it is All in one for the pump/res, but we offer more radiators to include thermal load, the expandability or how far you push it is up to you...

but by comparing to a h100 your comparing a 24cm fan to a 12cm rad, theres no point in even testing.

if we wanna be realistic then we can discuss such things but like I have said many times now you have to choose "the right tool for the job"

also Original sin.... 1.7V high clocked nehalem? seriously? I do overclock btw heres my profile http://hwbot.org/user/punx223/

I stopped posting results awhile back due to recent changes that messed up scoring for EVERYTHING but I think you get the point...

1.7V is nuts to expect that sustainable on any cooling solution that is not pretty extreme, and lets not forget your chip is not gonna be very happy very long unless sub ambient cooling is used at that voltage.

[Tt enthusiasts]

I have no problem testing products 5to show you guys performance but please be realistic...

do you buy a Camaro and expect to compete with a Ferrari at Le Mans?

lets compare apples to apples here guys.... I'll be real with you guys but please be reasonable with me as well. I like being here but what you guys are requesting doesnt even make sense. :confused:

[Tator Tot]

Yeah, but the Big Water 760 Plus isn't a quiet solution; nor optimized to be.
That's the problem.

I can get a performance solution like the Rasa RX kits or a silent solution like the Rasa RS kits for the same price or cheaper than a Big Water 760 Plus and either get better performance or a quieter solution.

Where's that leave the Big Water on the market?

Even if you want to argue it's a 120mm RAD vs a 240mm RAD the Rasa RS / RX 120 kits will out perform the Big Water 760 Plus. Which again, they're cheaper than the Tt's solution.

The Big Water doesn't have a realistic place in the market versus the competition.

I'm just looking at products that are priced the same, or are at least on the same scale with one another.

[Original Sin]

also Original sin.... 1.7V high clocked nehalem? seriously? I do overclock btw heres my profile http://hwbot.org/user/punx223/

I stopped posting results awhile back due to recent changes that messed up scoring for EVERYTHING but I think you get the point...

1.7V is nuts to expect that sustainable on any cooling solution that is not pretty extreme, and lets not forget your chip is not gonna be very happy very long unless sub ambient cooling is used at that voltage.

I do get what you're saying, but you missed my point, that's not in any way sustainable, no one in its right mind is gonna run a Nehalem @ 1.7 daily.. that's simply a testing scenario(a very good one too) for extreme TDP situation where you separate the true extreme/overclocking coolers from the pack, you slap a couple of 6k RPM San Ace fans on and see if you can avoid throttling in Prime95, >90% of the 'high end' heat sinks currently on the market won't make it to 20 seconds..
We were discussing Bulldozer, a horrid CPU in this regard, which most likely will put the Gulftown and the Nehalem to shame in power draw, the heat sinks that do well in the above scenario will do well with Bulldozer too, and imo that's the true test of a high end cooler, when heat transfer and dissipation is so good that you can keep from throttling a Nehalem @ 1.7v running Prime95 loops.

[mdk777]

I like being here but what you guys are requesting doesnt even make sense.

Just looking for solutions.

Haven't used any Tt products in many years..Think I might have bought a cooler for a 486 ??...its been awhile.

Anyway, my point was: the market for coolers really has been diminished as CPU often get down to 65 watt ....

Now with reports of FX systems adding 200 additional watts when OC , now you have a demand opportunity if you can satisfy it.

You're the expert...tell me what you have.:D

[Tt enthusiasts]

I do get what you're saying, but you missed my point, that's not in any way sustainable, no one in its right mind is gonna run a Nehalem @ 1.7 daily.. that's simply a testing scenario(a very good one too) for extreme TDP situation where you separate the true extreme/overclocking coolers from the pack, you slap a couple of 6k RPM San Ace fans on and see if you can avoid throttling in Prime95, >90% of the 'high end' heat sinks currently on the market won't make it to 20 seconds..
We were discussing Bulldozer, a horrid CPU in this regard, which most likely will put the Gulftown and the Nehalem to shame in power draw, the heat sinks that do well in the above scenario will do well with Bulldozer too, and imo that's the true test of a high end cooler, when heat transfer and dissipation is so good that you can keep from throttling a Nehalem @ 1.7v running Prime95 loops.

I honestly dont think there are really any coolers that would sustain that for very long if at all under a load but I think were kinda arguing for the sake of arguing which I would like to avoid...

I will test a real world usage scenario but for that I would be comparing a SS or cascade at the least.

[Tt enthusiasts]

Yeah, but the Big Water 760 Plus isn't a quiet solution; nor optimized to be.
That's the problem.

I can get a performance solution like the Rasa RX kits or a silent solution like the Rasa RS kits for the same price or cheaper than a Big Water 760 Plus and either get better performance or a quieter solution.

Where's that leave the Big Water on the market?

Even if you want to argue it's a 120mm RAD vs a 240mm RAD the Rasa RS / RX 120 kits will out perform the Big Water 760 Plus. Which again, they're cheaper than the Tt's solution.

The Big Water doesn't have a realistic place in the market versus the competition.

I'm just looking at products that are priced the same, or are at least on the same scale with one another.

i can understand where your coming from but I will be honest here I am not familiar with those kits or even what they offer, but I will definitely check them out.

[Tt enthusiasts]

Just looking for solutions.

Haven't used any Tt products in many years..Think I might have bought a cooler for a 486 ??...its been awhile.

Anyway, my point was: the market for coolers really has been diminished as CPU often get down to 65 watt ....

Now with reports of FX systems adding 200 additional watts when OC , now you have a demand opportunity if you can satisfy it.

You're the expert...tell me what you have.:D

Believe me BD is not only one that jumps to 200W when overclocked..

Gulfys do it, SB can even do it... just a matter of the Voltage and load your pushing to it....

Remember that 65W tdp CPU is only 65W max at stock settings once you start to overclock 65W or 95W in the case of 2500/2600K cpus easily eclipse 95W in the drop of a hat when you start dumping voltage....

therefore if everyone stops overclocking and just uses the system at stock then yes the market would diminish, but that would be very boring.,... at least in my opinion :lol:

[mdk777]

yeah, you are dodging the request for a recommendation.

200-300 watts over the base 100 watt, not 200 watts total.:eek:

http://www.guru3d.com/article/amd-fx-8150-processor-review/7

[Tt enthusiasts]

yeah, you are dodging the request for a recommendation.

200-300 watts over the base 100 watt, not 200 watts total.:eek:

http://www.guru3d.com/article/amd-fx-8150-processor-review/7

Not dodging, Sorry guess I missed that part ;)

200+ would be

Jing ~ 200W
Frio ~ 220W
Bigwater 760 Plus ~ 220W
Frio OCK ~ 240W

:D

[mdk777]

Ultimately, the Thermaltake FrioOCK heatsink is too loud with both its' fans operating at full speed and offers up only average thermal performance - due in large part to the handicap imposed by a strongly convex copper base plate. The domed base allows only a small area of contact between the FrioOCK heatsink and the flat synthetic CPU dies - hardly what we'd call ideal.

The underlying build of the FrioOCK cooler looks good, but Thermaltake completely fail to control the quality of one of the most critical aspects of any heatsink, the part that conducts heat away from the processor. Though the Thermaltake FrioOCK does offer average thermal performance, it's potential is completely lost. Not recommended. Lap it flat if you've got it.

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2611&page=5

You can't sell junk to the enthusiast market and hope to make it up on PR.:eek:

Make quality kit, and the customers will knock-down your doors demanding availability.

[Tt enthusiasts]

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2611&page=5

You can't sell junk to the enthusiast market and hope to make it up on PR.:eek:

Make quality kit, and the customers will knock-down your doors demanding availability.

I will pull 5 samples to check this, I have yet to have ANY contact issues with the Frio OCK cooler.

[Tator Tot]

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2611&page=5

You can't sell junk to the enthusiast market and hope to make it up on PR.:eek:

Make quality kit, and the customers will knock-down your doors demanding availability.
I'll say it right now, don't read Frostytech's reviews. They're not indicative of true performance and their test bed is flawed in many facets.

Also, the Frio OCK's fans are not that loud if you're just looking for reasonable temps (e.g. in spec but not incredibly cool. Like 55*C on a Phenom II x6)

[Original Sin]

I will pull 5 samples to check this, I have yet to have ANY contact issues with the Frio OCK cooler.
That's not bad really, however is best suited for very high TDP scenarios.. always leave it slightly convex if you want to address the enthusiast segment:)

[mdk777]

Well, I want both in an aftermarket cooler, lower noise and lower temps.

If I was willing to tolerate 40-60db, I could just turn the stock cooler fan to 100%

Regarding Convex:

I know this has been debated over the history....I have had much better luck with direct contact coolers myself.

Either way, if it tests consistently poorly on review sites(in comparison to peers..regardless of test equipment), I'm not going to spend money to prove the test rig wrong. :D

[Original Sin]

Well, I want both in an aftermarket cooler, lower noise and lower temps.

If I was willing to tolerate 40-60db, I could just turn the stock cooler fan to 100%

Regarding Convex:

I know this has been debated over the history....I have had much better luck with direct contact coolers myself.

Either way, if it tests consistently poorly on review sites(in comparison to peers..regardless of test equipment), I'm not going to spend money to prove the test rig wrong. :D

HDT solutions do well in low TDP situation.. on a 2500K(for example) @ 4Ghz/1.25v a Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme would do excellent.. on the other hand, on a 1.45v Gulftown it would be extremely poor, really depends on the situation and expectations.. still, there are no enthusiast level coolers on the market using a HDT base :)

As fas as noise goes, I'm the kind of buyer who couldn't care less about the stock fans, they almost always suck(exceptions being TR, some Scythe and Noctua solutions), enthusiasts will always buy superior fans than the stock crap >95% of the current coolers come with.. I only care about the heat sink and if that's good it will sell, see Prolimatech, most of their coolers are sold without any fans still they sell like cocaine in a crack house because they're that good.

[Tt enthusiasts]

Well, I want both in an aftermarket cooler, lower noise and lower temps.

If I was willing to tolerate 40-60db, I could just turn the stock cooler fan to 100%

Regarding Convex:

I know this has been debated over the history....I have had much better luck with direct contact coolers myself.

Either way, if it tests consistently poorly on review sites(in comparison to peers..regardless of test equipment), I'm not going to spend money to prove the test rig wrong. :D

The thing I am trying to discuss is that you state it tests poorly on many reviews, which it does not.

The Frio OCK battles it out with the top coolers available within a degree or so and tahts why im trying to clear this kind of misinformation up.

[Original Sin]

The thing I am trying to discuss is that you state it tests poorly on many reviews, which it does not.

The Frio OCK battles it out with the top coolers available within a degree or so and tahts why im trying to clear this kind of misinformation up.

Have you ever thought about selling just the heat sink + mounting kit and a couple of fan clips?.. I really like that approach and I think true enthusiast gear should be sold in this form, clean, customizable, without the additional bells and whistles.

And don't get me wrong, this is not a TT issue, is true for most of the others, Corsair has shit fans too(and shit coolers), Cooler Master has shit fans too(and again shit coolers), and so on and so forth.. a good heat sink will sell without the average fans and that plastic thingie which no one likes.

This is also true for cases, I would buy a case without a single fan as long as it's well designed and engineered and it uses standard fan holes(12/14cm) because chances are I would change the fans anyway:)

[Tator Tot]

I wouldn't say Corsair has shit coolers, the A50 is a great budget solution with decent fans and a solid mounting mechanism.

Cooler Master can't really do coolers correctly, but their Blade Master fans are great for what they are. Cheap, Powerful, PWM, and they have a solid noise profile.

[rafal_iB_PL]

And don't get me wrong, this is not a TT issue, is true for most of the others, Corsair has shit fans too(and shit coolers), Cooler Master has shit fans too(and again shit coolers), and so on and so forth.. a good heat sink will sell without the average fans and that plastic thingie which no one likes.

but Thermalright has excellent fans, and so does Noctua (after TY-140, Noctua ones don't fare as impressively anymore though).

[Tator Tot]

Noctua fans have always been garbage. They can't even seal a bearing properly. They've consistently had issues with leaking.
Poor static pressure, and an average sound profile.

[Original Sin]

but Thermalright has excellent fans, and so does Noctua (after TY-140, Noctua ones don't fare as impressively anymore though).
Yeah, in the previous post I said exactly that, TR fans are excellent, Scythe has some good fans and so does Noctua, NoiseBlocker has good fans but utter shit cooler(s?), Coolink also, etc :)

@TT,
Well, taken individually the A70 and A50 are ok.. but when for the same price as the A50 you can get a Mugen3 what would you pick?.. maybe 'shit' is a little harsh, but they're not fighting segment leaders, not even close..

As to the Cooler Master fans, price wise I can't argue, you get what you pay for with the Blade Master fans.

[Original Sin]

Noctua fans have always been garbage. They can't even seal a bearing properly. They've consistently had issues with leaking.
Poor static pressure, and an average sound profile.

They're too expensive for what they are, but garbage they're not.. the P14 is a solid noise/static pressure solution.. yeah it's not on the same level as the TY-140 or not even the Slip Stream but it's far from garbage.

Anyway, I want a case that will allow me to fit Triebwerk 121's in a positive pressure configuration:D

[Tator Tot]

The P14 has nothing in terms of Static Pressure, same with the Triebwerk's. They're both sub 2mmH20 which is poor for any fan that's gonna be labeled as a performance part to be used on a Heatsink or Radiator.

[Original Sin]

Actually 1.3mmH2O is pretty good for 1.2K rpm from a 140mm fan, it's well above average.. and the P14 makes an excellent case fan, as for the Triebwerk's, they're even better(they do ramp up to 2.8k rpm with 5.2mmH20), but I doubt I'll ever see a case to accommodate 5/7 such fans:)

[Tt enthusiasts]

yeah, you are dodging the request for a recommendation.

200-300 watts over the base 100 watt, not 200 watts total.:eek:

http://www.guru3d.com/article/amd-fx-8150-processor-review/7

I think I missed part of this question...

your not going to find an air cooler spec'd for 200 watts over 125W TDP... thats 325W and thats almost what I have my single stage unit spec'd at and its designed to run subzero...

the plain fact is that kind of thermal load cannot be sustained with an air cooler.... not just ours but any air cooler I have seen.

[mdk777]

Yeah, that is why the conversation was ranging over AIO and kit water solutions.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/member.php?u=5561

:)

[Tt enthusiasts]

Yeah, that is why the conversation was ranging over AIO and kit water solutions.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/member.php?u=5561

:)

O_o sorry didnt visit the link... that would be the 3rd thing I missed.....

this isnt like a 3 strikes law or anything right?? :)

[Original Sin]

I think I missed part of this question...

your not going to find an air cooler spec'd for 200 watts over 125W TDP... thats 325W and thats almost what I have my single stage unit spec'd at and its designed to run subzero...

the plain fact is that kind of thermal load cannot be sustained with an air cooler.... not just ours but any air cooler I have seen.

Facts contradict you, we have reference VGA coolers that can dissipate more than that(and custom air solutions that can ramp up to 700W (http://lab501.ro/placi-video/asus-radeon-hd-6990-studiu-de-overclocking)).

this isnt like a 3 strikes law or anything right??
We'll let it slide this time, just keep in mind that on this forum you're dealing people that can tell a mosfet from an inductor;).. oh and, '5 star' members will not praise you for the excellent performance of the Thermaltake Silver Arrow(couldn't help it;p)

[jonnyGURU]

I'm old skool. I need a Golden Orb for my Socket A Duron. :p

[Tator Tot]

I'm old skool. I need a Golden Orb for my Socket A Duron. :p
Big Typhoon or go home.

[Tt enthusiasts]

Facts contradict you, we have reference VGA coolers that can dissipate more than that(and custom air solutions that can ramp up to 700W (http://lab501.ro/placi-video/asus-radeon-hd-6990-studiu-de-overclocking)).


We'll let it slide this time, just keep in mind that on this forum you're dealing people that can tell a mosfet from an inductor;).. oh and, '5 star' members will not praise you for the excellent performance of the Thermaltake Silver Arrow(couldn't help it;p)

I understand what your saying as there are units that im sure can dissipate large amounts of heat but at what sustainable temperature?

and will you be able to hear with them?

I mean the GTX 480 cooler can dissipate 250W approx at 90-95C but you cant hear when using it ;)


oh and ouch... :/

[Tt enthusiasts]

Big Typhoon or go home.

^^ what he said... :D

[Tator Tot]

^^ what he said... :D
Seriously, I still have a Big Typhoon and a working Socket A system running in tangent. Overclocked Athlon XP 3200+

[Tt enthusiasts]

Seriously, I still have a Big Typhoon and a working Socket A system running in tangent. Overclocked Athlon XP 3200+

I have a big typhoon sitting on my desk....

and yes I am serious.... I had one on a Q6600 and a E8400

they are really very good coolers tbh.

[Tator Tot]

Big Typhoon was great. Not really for Core 2 Quad though; but definitely well worth their cash back in the day. Picked mine up for $40

[Tt enthusiasts]

Big Typhoon was great. Not really for Core 2 Quad though; but definitely well worth their cash back in the day. Picked mine up for $40

lol,

I have the Big typ 14 pro lol. tahts more the one I was referencing :p


now that thing was pretty beastly :)

[Tt enthusiasts]

I'm old skool. I need a Golden Orb for my Socket A Duron. :p

Sorry I missed your post but LOL :D

[diriel]

Hi all,

First post here, but long time Johnny Guru lurker. This is one of the first places I go when researching a new build. A quality PSU is the first place I start.

Header says Air, so I will keep my post to that topic.

On the Frio OCK I would ditch the fancy plastic shroud thing. It is just something else to go wrong / astray in the MFG / Assembly process that adds far too little to the end result. I prefer a nice simple clip on with an air seal / anti-vibe for the fan. With the Frio OCK the fact it is 13cm is a bit of a draw back / problem. Perhaps a simple 130 to 120 adapter with silicon anti-vibe / seals would do the trick. If you must include fans, one of my personal all time favorites is the San Ace 120 x 38, this fan really does a nice job. Yes it is expensive, but well worth the price and it can ramp up some very decent cfm numbers.

Quality sells, just my .02c

[Tt enthusiasts]

Hi all,

First post here, but long time Johnny Guru lurker. This is one of the first places I go when researching a new build. A quality PSU is the first place I start.

Header says Air, so I will keep my post to that topic.

On the Frio OCK I would ditch the fancy plastic shroud thing. It is just something else to go wrong / astray in the MFG / Assembly process that adds far too little to the end result. I prefer a nice simple clip on with an air seal / anti-vibe for the fan. With the Frio OCK the fact it is 13cm is a bit of a draw back / problem. Perhaps a simple 130 to 120 adapter with silicon anti-vibe / seals would do the trick. If you must include fans, one of my personal all time favorites is the San Ace 120 x 38, this fan really does a nice job. Yes it is expensive, but well worth the price and it can ramp up some very decent cfm numbers.

Quality sells, just my .02c

I am already looing into this kind of solution (Fan slips instead of shrouds) but just so you do understand, there are already fitment issues with taller dimms with most all tower coolers so going with a 38mm thickness fan while it may improve static pressure will only enhance the fitment and clearance issues that are already seen on modern systems, especially with LGA2011 implementing dimm slots on both sides of the socket.

[diriel]

Good point about the fitment. I wonder how (1) 120 x 38 would do? Or perhaps a 140 x 38, though with the cfm numbers the 120s push it may be a moot point.

Then again, the good old (2) 120 x 25 would certainly be a well proven, time tested answer.

Have a good one sir,
Gary