custom gaming rig review... help... please...

[FLOOOSH]

AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition Thuban 3.2GHz 6 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Six-Core Desktop Processor HDT90ZFBGRBOX
-$199

ASRock 870 EXTREME3 AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
-90

Acer H243Hbmid 24" Widescreen HD LCD Monitor - 1920 x 1080, 40000:1 Dynamic, 2ms, HDMI, DVI, VGA, Energy Star, Tilt Mount, HDCP, w/ Speakers
-$200
what video card should i get? i want a pretty good one to play games on verry high setting and be able to crossfire or whatever so i could buy another one later when games come out in the future with better graphics.

SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
i was at first gonna go with this hard drive but thought it might be better to buy a fast rpm internal hard drive and a bigger capacity external hard drive. i wasn't sure though if i could like store games on the external and play them using the faster hard drive or shome shit like that i dont really know what im talking about. sugestions on what hard drive or drives is hould buy would be cool

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBXL
-50

COOLER MASTER Storm Scout SGC-2000-KKN1-GP Black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case OR Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case not sure which i should get
-$99

ASUS Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
-$18.99

are these parts all compatable and what should i change with my setup. and how much power does my psu need and what one should i buy. i heard new egg is where i should get my parts so yeeee.

[mdk777]

You need to determine what Graphics card/cards you will be looking at before you can determine the correct Power Supply. The wattage requirement spread is just too huge otherwise.

To give you some idea see the sites bellow:

Today I would be looking at the AMD 6950 and the NV GTX 560 as the best bang for the buck, on frames/dollar and frames per watt.
However, it all depends on your budget, and the games/applications you intend to run.


http://www.guru3d.com/article/radeon-hd-6950-1gb-vs-geforce-gtx-560-ti-review/4
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1533/17/
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/HD_6850_Cyclone_Power_Edition/26.html

[rafal_iB_PL]

For gaming rig Phenom X6 makes little sense. OTOH it's decently powerful rendering procesor. Either save and go X4 955, or step up to i5-760 + mobo like Gigabyte P55A-UD3 or Asus P7P55D-E LX (I suggest those, as they have USB 3.0 + SATA3, like the Asrock you picked, which means they're as future proof as far as "dead platform" goes).

[Digerati]

Newegg is certainly one place you should check out. I buy most of my hardware from there. Be sure to factor in shipping before deciding who has the best prices.

I don't see an operating system listed. Note that only the full "retail" versions of Windows are transferable from another computer. System Builder/OEMs and Upgrades to OEMs are not transferable. If no valid license, a new Windows license will need to be purchased, or you can use one of the many free and capable Linux alternatives.

[MrWicked1968]

I've never had a problem using an OEM OS on a different machine, never at the same time though.

[x.clay]

if you end up with a larger graphics card you may run into problems with the Scout - esp. if the power plugs are on the ends and not the side. The handle is really nice though and the cooling is good. I would take a look at these cases at the $100 price point before you make a decision:

Cooler Master HAF 922
Cooler Master 690 II
Lian Li/Lancool PC-K62
NZXT Tempest Evo

[Digerati]

I've never had a problem using an OEM OS on a different machine, never at the same time though.It will install and work, it is just not legal by the terms of the EULA we agree to when we start using the product. OEMs are tied to the "original equipment" and are not legally transferable. That's one reason they are cheaper.

[MrWicked1968]

It will install and work, it is just not legal by the terms of the EULA we agree to when we start using the product. OEMs are tied to the "original equipment" and are not legally transferable. That's one reason they are cheaper.

guess what? all it takes is a phone call to microsoft, a friendly CSR will walk you through the re-activation process and you're in business. The transferred OEM OS will pass the Windows Validation with flying colors. And that was only if the OS was reinstalled within a year of a previous activation.

Granted, this was with Windows XP, perhaps Vista and 7 are different.

[mdk777]

It will install and work, it is just not legal by the terms of the EULA we agree to when we start using the product. OEMs are tied to the "original equipment" and are not legally transferable. That's one reason they are cheaper.

The OP asked about EULA where again?:lol::crazy:

[Digerati]

I'm not saying they won't do it. I am saying the terms of the OEM license require a new license for new computers. If you call up Microsoft and are truthful and tell them you are building a new computer and you have an OEM license from an old computer, then fine. If you omit that information, that is deceit by fraud.

[MrWicked1968]

right.

[mdk777]

I see where the OP did not say he wasn't going to use his computer to download songs illegally from a bit torrent site.

In case he was planning on doing that, it would also be illegal.

I also see the OP did not say he wasn't going to use his graphics card to crack passwords.

In case he was planning on doing that, (I have seen offers to pay to use your graphics card, sponsored by organized crime..... I am not making this up.)

That would also be a very bad idea.

[jonnyGURU]

Ok guys... let's keep this level headed.

As far as I remember, the EULA of an OEM OS doesn't specifically state what kind of PC the OS can and cannot get installed on, only that is only used on only one machine at a time. Also, technically, that OS is only supported by Microsoft's customer (to whom the Microsoft sold the OEM software to) and not Microsoft directly (except, of course, if you need to re-activate the OS because it's been uninstalled off one machine and is getting installed on another.) They will know from the activation code that the software is an OEM when you call, but they will not ask for a back story. They'll only ask if the OS is installed on more than one PC.

Now, a lot of OEM OS's look for BIOS string. They've been doing this since XP for Dell, HP, Gateway, etc. These will install on particular make/model computers, but will not install on other computers. The CD's for these OS's are usually branded as they are published by the system builder and not Microsoft (they only need to buy the OEM codes from Microsoft). If the OS is on a holographic Microsoft Windows CD though, odds are its not going to look for a BIOS string.

Now let's move on....

[Digerati]

Thanks for stepping in. As far as I remember, the EULA of an OEM OS doesn't specifically state what kind of PC the OS can and cannot get installed on, only that is only used on only one machine at a time.That is correct, but the OEM license and EULA (http://www.microsoft.com/About/Legal/EN/US/IntellectualProperty/UseTerms/Default.aspx) will also say something similar to this seen for Windows 7 Professional, (their bold), By using the software, you accept these terms. If you do not accept them, do not use the software.
The software license is permanently assigned to the computer with which the software is distributed. That computer is the “licensed computer.”
So it cannot be transfered to a new computer. There are other references, but we don't need to side track this thread.

So back to FLOOOSH, if you currently have a full retail license, no worries, you can install it on your new computer as long as it is not installed on any other computer. If you don't have a retail license to transfer, you will need to purchase a new license, or use Linux. In either case, I recommend 64-bit.

Also, I don't see a keyboard or mouse listed. If not bringing them from an old computer, don't forget to budget for them as well.

[mdk777]

Also, I don't see a keyboard or mouse listed. If not bringing them from an old computer, don't forget to budget for them as well.

How about a desk?
Mouse pad?

I'm a big fan of the Aeron chair.

Now only $680

http://www.amazon.com/Aeron-Chair-Herman-Miller-Graphite/dp/B000LT9H4A

[McSteel]

Working for Micro$oft sure can mess with one's head...

Or maybe it's the other way around?

[HangFire]

Now that the 1090T is down to $199, the conventional wisdom that AMD hex-core doesn't have bang-for-buck for gaming is being challenged. Yes, not many games take advantage of more than 2 or 3 cores right now, but it is pretty cheap future-proofing.


SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
i was at first gonna go with this hard drive but thought it might be better to buy a fast rpm internal hard drive and a bigger capacity external hard drive. i wasn't sure though if i could like store games on the external and play them using the faster hard drive or shome shit like that i dont really know what im talking about. sugestions on what hard drive or drives is hould buy would be cool

I'm not too keen on Samsung Spinpoints right now. Samsung has no Windows SMART utility. You can't get a free edition of Acronis disk imaging like you can with Seagate and WD. Performance doesn't match up with WD Black drives. Their required diagnostic s/w for RMA is ancient Freedos boot and doesn't work on either my AMD 890GX or S775 systems. I have two F1's less than 2 years old. One of the two drives is making knocking sounds every 1.5 seconds, even with no writes going on.

If you are getting a SATA III mother board, I suggest taking a strong look at the new SATA III WD Blacks. My Sata II Black 640GB is going strong after more than 2 years.

[Digerati]

If you are getting a SATA III mother board, I suggest taking a strong look at the new SATA III WD Blacks.Good catch! I agree. I like WD Blacks too but perhaps more importantly, that motherboard does support SATA III, the latest version. So to take advantage of the newest technology, buy 6Gbit/s (SATA III) drives. By the same token, I would go for 64Mb buffers too. If I were buying today, I'd consider the Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - Bare Drive (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136533).

I did just have a couple WD drives fail. But both had 5 year warranties (something I look for). Plug the serial number into WD's RMA wizard and it quickly determines if warranty is still valid. If good, they send a replacement drive immediately. You have 30 days to return the old. You pay return shipping only and they have a discount deal with UPS if you buy and print a shipping label on-line. Not a bad deal. I wait for the new to arrive then return the old in the same box. Mine came in 2 days.

They do require a credit card number, but they don't charge unless 30 days passes.

[rafal_iB_PL]

Actually, SATA 3 is just a marketing gimmick in HDDs. No mainstream HDD is capable of exceeding 300 MB/s, except for bursts, which yield virtually no meaning for real world performance. SSDs, and only the newest ones, are where SATA3 matters.

I see no problem with Samsung F3.

I have two F1's less than 2 years old. One of the two drives is making knocking sounds every 1.5 seconds, even with no writes going on.

Except past series have no impact on how new series perform. I have a friend who had 2 Samsung F1s die on him, it doesn't mean that F3s are as bad. F4s could be better, but I have no worthwhile information about those.

[tomoyo]

Yep agree with rafal here. Sata-3 (aka Sata 6gb/s by real name) is completely worthless for normal hard drives. Only SSDs can take advantage of the bandwidth at all. And that's only for the newer ssds that actually can hit over 250mb/s. HDD's just come down to what noise/vibration you're looking for, what rpm, and which ones work well for certain workloads.

[HangFire]

Actually, SATA 3 is just a marketing gimmick in HDDs. No mainstream HDD is capable of exceeding 300 MB/s, except for bursts, which yield virtually no meaning for real world performance.

Well, yeah, interface throughput is the least advantage.

The biggest advantage to the WD Black SATA III drives over the WD Black II is double the onboard cache, which does have a real-world affect on performance, both benchmarks and average usage profiles that contribute heavily to user perception of system responsiveness.

As to the meaning of SATA III itself on a HDD, I am more concerned with the performance and reliability of the 4K sectors that comes along with it. Larger sectors contribute to lower latencies and higher throughput, due to less ECC code being executed. In addition less of the disk is used for ECC code than 512 byte sector disks, which may not mean much to the user buying in any given size increment, but it does mean something to throughput. Less bytes of (otherwise useless) ECC code is read per revolution, so at 7200 RPM, more bytes of real data are read leading to correspondingly higher throughput.

The result of larger cache, higher data density, and lower controller overhead all contribute several percent each to the performance of the HDD. This may not be much compared to say, just about any good SSD, but on a relatively slow device as the modern HDD, each increase can be much more tangible to the user than, say, the speed difference between a good SSD and a great SSD.


SSDs, and only the newest ones, are where SATA3 matters.


The differences in performance are only incremental, but the advantages I listed above are available in WD Black SATA III drives for no real cost increase versus other brand SATA II drives... so why not?


I see no problem with Samsung F3.


Even if the drives are fine, the poor RMA support, lack of SMART software, and lack of free imaging software is enough to put Samsung into the "why bother?" class for me.

-HF

[HangFire]

HDD's just come down to what noise/vibration you're looking for, what rpm, and which ones work well for certain workloads.

Noise/vibration was a big selling point for the F1's, and a reason why the noisier F2's weren't so popular and didn't last long on the marketplace. Not sure about the F3's or coming F4's.

As for certain workloads, the combination of lower latency and higher throughput pretty much covers the gamut.

This discussion reminds me of arguments of why not buy an AGP motherboard, since it wasn't saturated yet, and PCIe was unproven.

[Digerati]

I can't argue with you - I should have thought that out better. Today's standard drives don't take full advantage of that bandwidth. The new hybrids might be something to look into, however. Seems like a promising compromise until the prices for SSDs come down significantly. I would still look for the larger 64Mb buffer, however.

noise/vibration A good case can help suppress that!

[mdk777]

So the question remains:
Do OP ever comment again on these threads, or are they merely posted as a Rorschach test; probing the subconscious of this community. :D:eek:

[walterm]

Certainly, like I'm sure, like, totally, ya know,,
Flashback, I like Viewsonic and Asus as preferred monitors, three year warranties and good customer service. YMMV.
Plan for a 60 gb SSD when and if you can, reportedly the best gaming speed up.

[walterm]

While considering, any thoughts on HHd mountings? or HDD coolers?
Sata III necessitates Sata III cables, which can mean hunting for low prices..

[rafal_iB_PL]

Sata III necessitates Sata III cables, which can mean hunting for low prices..

That's a new one to me. I know people who have SATA3 drives and used old cables without any issues. New "audiophilesque" business? :crazy:

[Digerati]

Sata III necessitates Sata III cablesUmmm, I don't think so either. Quality cables, but not special cables. Perhaps there is some confusion with eSATA drives, some of which need special eSATAp cables.

[walterm]

I may be mixed up here. Sata I and II are available for about a $1 each without latches.
Then there are one latch cables. These are data cables.
SATA III come with latches on both connectors, and if I understand correctly, seven conductors instead of four.
OPPS. Both use four live/three ground wires. Apologies.
The two latch connectors seem to be priced from $3 to $11 each shipped.
A review of articles shows cables backward and forward compatible. Sigh.
Trying to pay attention to every detail, while still learning what questions to ask.
How important are the cable latches?
They offer security but you can beat up sockets reaching to release latches. Opinions please!?

[HangFire]

While considering, any thoughts on HHd mountings? or HDD coolers?

HDD coolers are completely unnecessary in a case with good airflow. If you are concerned you can put the HDD in the front of the case near an air inlet, or better yet, behind the 120mm input fan.

If you are building a Small Form Factor PC and relying on the P/S or convection for airflow, and still have room for a drive-hugging HDD cooler fan, it may make sense.

2.5" SSD's need something to hold them down in a 3.5" world. That something can be as little as a few cable ties or a velcro strap.


Sata III necessitates Sata III cables, which can mean hunting for low prices..

My new Asus AMD M/B came with two SATA III cables. I think the latches are mandatory for SATA III. They matter primarily to vendors who sell pre-assembled PC's via bump-and-drop shipping services. I have found them useful in preventing (or making obvious) accidental ham-handed SATA disconnections when I'm in the PC for other reasons.

[HangFire]

Plan for a 60 gb SSD when and if you can, reportedly the best gaming speed up.

Well, best speed-up for loading new levels. That can help allow you to select your team in ad-hoc team games, where the last few players in the door get slotted into the smaller team for balance.

Once a level is loaded, it does nothing for your peak or sustained frames per second.

Not knocking SSD's. Just want realistic expectations.

-HF